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Face climb using a diagonal seam to gain the deep, flaring, and sustained hand crack. It is possible to climb as an OW if you stay toward the outside of the crack.
To descend, scramble to climber's left (north) into the notch where Gunks West and Lumping Fat Jennie end. There is usually a rappel station setup here from a large slung boulder. Alternatively you can scramble further left to reach the bolted rap anchors of leaping leaner.
The obvious left-leaning, very flared hand crack on the right side of locomotion rock.
small to big hand size cams. BD .75-3. Extra 2-3 inch cams for the anchor.
Oct 27, 2016
This is a stout .7, and not for the beginner gear climber. Short arms may prevent reaching the jams at the back of this flaring offwidth.
Nov 6, 2016
Climb low angle featured slab before transitioning to a deep wide crack which gradually steepens. Climbs easier than it looks due to secure jams at the back of the crack.
Good gear (0.5" to hand sized) once you've established yourself in the crack.