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Hex chordelette length
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Feb 11, 2016
I got some hexes without cord. Was wondering what you folks thought a good total length should be? I apologize if this has been covered elsewhere on the forum, I just couldn't find it.

Cheers

Mark
Mark lewin
Joined Jun 30, 2015
5 points
Administrator
Feb 11, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Me and the offspring walking back to the car after...
Personally, I wouldn't want them hanging any lower on my harness than a long quickdraw. Whatever length that is. 8-10 inches I'm guessing. Somewhere around there. Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Joined Jul 30, 2011
1,216 points
Administrator
Feb 11, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lich...
About 2.5 feet works best for scourging. Whatever finished length you decide on, remember to add more than you would think for the fisherman's knots and tails. M Sprague
From New England
Joined Nov 9, 2006
6,300 points
Feb 11, 2016
Id say about 2-2.5 feet to make them hang in a similar fashion to cams. Also makes it a natural thing to clip once set since the carabiner will dangle similar to your other pro.

Rock Climbing Photo: Hex cordellette length the same as a cam.
Hex cordellette length the same as a cam.
Ancent
From Reno, NV
Joined Apr 10, 2015
90 points
Feb 11, 2016
I like it, makes sense to set them the same length as the cams. I can always extend with a draw if need be. Mark lewin
Joined Jun 30, 2015
5 points
Apr 20, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Working through the first moves of Seven Year Itch...
I am thinking of re-slinging my hexes (BDs on wire hangers). From the above pic it looks like I should go through both sides of the hex. I have an older one that only has holes on one side, so was looking for opinions on that. I always did the fishermen knots so I could tuck them inside the hex, but can't do that as well if the sling passes through both walls of the hex. Charles Ciaffone
Joined Nov 20, 2015
255 points
Apr 20, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: en route to wham ridge  Photo by Carl Schnitker
Charles Ciaffone wrote:
I am thinking of re-slinging my hexes (BDs on wire hangers). From the above pic it looks like I should go through both sides of the hex. I have an older one that only has holes on one side, so was looking for opinions on that. I always did the fishermen knots so I could tuck them inside the hex, but can't do that as well if the sling passes through both walls of the hex.

A knot on the outside would be better than one inside because the knot makes it slightly stiffer and easier to place. With the modern titan cord or other spectra/nylon blends, the cord is actually stiffer than wires. Kind of like the smaller stoppers. I like my slung hexes better than wired ones BD now makes.
eli poss
From Durango, Co
Joined May 9, 2014
422 points
Apr 21, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Working through the first moves of Seven Year Itch...
Thank you. I am also planning to take a suggestion from another thread and step the cord length to minimize the tolling of the hexes. Charles Ciaffone
Joined Nov 20, 2015
255 points
Apr 21, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Acquisition of Knowledge
Something you might consider is off-setting the lengths of the cord loops so that when you rack them in order, instead of all sitting side by side, they alternate low to high. This will mean less bunching and less clanging.

(Edit: looks like that idea was just covered)
Mathias
From Loveland, CO
Joined Jun 4, 2014
313 points
Apr 21, 2016
Ancent wrote:
Hex cordellette length the same as a cam.

This and the thread title are misleading - these are not cordellettes.
Marc801
From Sandy, Utah
Joined Feb 25, 2014
64 points
Apr 21, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: After a very very damp and cold evening climbing o...
Buy some DMM hexes rack them individually, you get to carry less draws, it's gr8. that guy named seb
Joined Oct 24, 2015
182 points
Apr 21, 2016
eli poss wrote:
With the modern titan cord or other spectra/nylon blends, the cord is actually stiffer than wires. Kind of like the smaller stoppers. I like my slung hexes better than wired ones BD now makes.


Thanks for bringing this up Eli. A climber I recently met in my area mentioned this same thing of a lot of tech cords being really stiff. I have yet to use any type of tech cord, but could foresee using it as a less expensive option than sending out hexes to be reslung. In yours and other peoples opinions, is there any sufficiently small diameter yet strong enough tech cord that is flexible enough to be used for this application? Or perhaps using a thicker static nylon accessory cord?

Because you are absolutely correct that slung hex's are far superior to wired ones.


Mathias wrote:
Something you might consider is off-setting the lengths of the cord loops so that when you rack them in order, instead of all sitting side by side, they alternate low to high. This will mean less bunching and less clanging.


This is brilliant! Thank you for mentioning this. I'm surprised DMM and Wild Country don't intentionally do this on their hexes right out of the factory. DMM is all the same length, and Wild Country only makes the two smaller sizes slightly shorter in length than the larger sizes.
anotherclimber
Joined Apr 4, 2016
17 points
Apr 21, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: This is a novel auto blocking belay device.  I thi...
Get rid of all your hexes and buy cams.

..........Its a hex thread, someone had to say it.
Rick Blair
From Denver
Joined Oct 16, 2007
376 points
Apr 21, 2016
Rick Blair wrote:
Get rid of all your hexes and buy cams. ..........Its a hex thread, someone had to say it.


I already own a double rack of cams and still love my Wild Country Rockcentric hexes. Someone had to say it back to you. :D
anotherclimber
Joined Apr 4, 2016
17 points
Apr 21, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: en route to wham ridge  Photo by Carl Schnitker
I use Bluewater titan cord which is 5.5mm thick and is a blend of spectra and perlon(nylon cord). Other companies make a similar thin, stiff cord, such as sterling's power cord. Brand doesn't really matter, as long as the cord is stiff enough and thin enough to fit the holes. I really like the stiffness because the only ones that are floppy are the biggest two, i think they're BD #12 and #13. The rest of them have the stiffness of wired nut.

Make sure to tie the cord in a triple fishermans bend and leave adequate tail. Also make sure the metal edges that touch the cord haven't become sharp. I would take some pics for examples but all my climbing gear is packed up to move out of the dorms next week.
eli poss
From Durango, Co
Joined May 9, 2014
422 points
Apr 21, 2016
eli poss wrote:
I have Bluewater titan cord which is 5.5mm thick and is a blend of spectra and perlon(nylon cord). I really like the stiffness because the only ones that are floppy are the biggest two, i think they're BD #12 and #13.


Oh wait, I think I misunderstood you. It seems you like a stiffer sling on your hexes. I'm looking for a more flexible tech cord so it's not as close to a wire in stiffness.
anotherclimber
Joined Apr 4, 2016
17 points
Apr 21, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: en route to wham ridge  Photo by Carl Schnitker
If that's the case, just use some nylon accessory cord. probably want at least 6mm, 7 would be better if it will fit. then it will be plenty flexible. eli poss
From Durango, Co
Joined May 9, 2014
422 points
Apr 21, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Acquisition of Knowledge
Rick Blair wrote:
Get rid of all your hexes and buy cams. ..........Its a hex thread, someone had to say it.


I'm waiting for the day when my wife decides we can go climb on nothing but DMM Torque Nuts. We combined racks when she moved and ended up with 3 sets!
Mathias
From Loveland, CO
Joined Jun 4, 2014
313 points
Apr 21, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Working through the first moves of Seven Year Itch...
Rick Blair wrote:
Get rid of all your hexes and buy cams. ..........Its a hex thread, someone had to say it.


I am always surprised when I see someone leading with nothing but cams on their rack. I enjoy the art of placing gear, and to me cams are the last resort. That's just how I climb, though. I hope we can all find what we enjoy and cheer on others with their choice of style.
Charles Ciaffone
Joined Nov 20, 2015
255 points
Apr 22, 2016
Rick Blair wrote:
Get rid of all your hexes and buy cams. ..........Its a hex thread, someone had to say it.


Seriously? Do you climb around the country? If so you'd know that hexes are bomber at some places. Yes I have cams, many of them, but they are not always the go to. Depends on the situation and place.
Mark lewin
Joined Jun 30, 2015
5 points
Apr 22, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: This is a novel auto blocking belay device.  I thi...
Mark lewin wrote:
Seriously? Do you climb around the country? If so you'd know that hexes are bomber at some places. Yes I have cams, many of them, but they are not always the go to. Depends on the situation and place.

It was a tongue in cheek comment making fun of the constant posts on the forum here telling people to get rid of hexes. Now I get to make fun of you.

I own BD and DMM hexes BTW.
Rick Blair
From Denver
Joined Oct 16, 2007
376 points
Apr 22, 2016
Mathias wrote:
I'm waiting for the day when my wife decides we can go climb on nothing but DMM Torque Nuts. We combined racks when she moved and ended up with 3 sets!


That's hilarious, but could be really awesome if we find out later you completed a climb with nothing but three sets of Torque Nuts! If you like DMM Torque Nuts, you'll probably like Wild Country Rockcentrics even better. In my own humble opinion, and I bought these with my own money and don't work for or am a sponsor of Wild Country, they are the best hex on the market. They place easier and set harder. Plus you have more sizes to work with.

I just permanently removed my DMM Torque Nuts from my rack as they are never my first pick for a hex placement. I also opted to add one size larger (#11) and smaller (#4) in the now discontinued Camp Dyneema Carvex hex.
anotherclimber
Joined Apr 4, 2016
17 points
Apr 22, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Acquisition of Knowledge
anotherclimber wrote:
That's hilarious, but could be really awesome if we find out later you completed a climb with nothing but three sets of Torque Nuts! If you like DMM Torque Nuts, you'll probably like Wild Country Rockcentrics even better. In my own humble opinion, and I bought these with my own money and don't work for or am a sponsor of Wild Country, they are the best hex on the market. They place easier and set harder. Plus you have more sizes to work with. I just permanently removed my DMM Torque Nuts from my rack as they are never my first pick for a hex placement. I also opted to add one size larger (#11) and smaller (#4) in the now discontinued Camp Dyneema Carvex hex.


I don't know. I'm pretty attached to the Torque Nuts, not sure I could go all WC at this point. Actually my wife used to work at an outdoors/climbing store back in the UK. She strongly prefers the DMMs to the WCs.... But now she's an even bigger fan of the big tricams (2.5-4.0) so they go everywhere with us!

You bring up an interesting point though, which is adding the larger sizes of WC hexes to my DMMs. I might look into this cos sometimes big blue just isn't big enough!
Mathias
From Loveland, CO
Joined Jun 4, 2014
313 points
Apr 22, 2016
Mathias:

Yeah, that's one issue with the Torque Nuts is not enough sizes. And their advertising that four take the place of six traditional hexes. I don't buy that line at all. I suspect their idea was that most people would just want a few hexes to supplement their cams. Definitely try some larger sizes of the Rockcentrics, you might be surprised how well they work.
anotherclimber
Joined Apr 4, 2016
17 points


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