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Beckey's Wall Area
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"Elementary My Dear Watson" T 
3rd Crack Over T 
Axis of Evil Arete T 
Beckey's Wall T 
Cheetah T 
Date with Fate T 
Date With Kate T 
Fingertrip Variation T 
Fruit Loops T 
Hesitate No More T 
Hesitation T 
Needle's Eye Variation T 
Orange Sling, The T 
Pebbles and Bambam S,TR 
Shaken Climber Syndrome S 
Siesta T 
Split Decision T 
Split Fingers T 
Split Pants T 
Sweet Jane Variation T 
Tarzan T 
Tingey's Direct T 
Tingey's Terror T 
Tingey's Torture T 
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YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R [details]
FA: Unknon
Page Views: 115
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Aug 12, 2005

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


From the midway belay station on the easy dihedral pitch of Beckey's Wall is a vertical flake system. This is the start of Hesitation. It continues up this initially well-protected flake system angling left a bit into grooves that don't protect too well (brass nuts). A fall here would probably deck, but keep moving into another crack system that ends in nice diagonalling (almost horizontal) hand crack. Cams or hexes are especially important here. Work through this fun sequence into progressively worse rock, and fight your way through the trees/bushes. About miodway through the vegetation, a vertical crack saves you from the trees; however, the rock quality maintains its poor nature. As this crack progresses, it widens and flares into a nast offwidth. #2's and larger are imperative to protect safely here. The chains are within reach soon. Beware of loose rock, dead tree branches on the upper face. I almost took out my partner when my left handhold (1' X 2' rock), came hurtling off. Bring your helmets.


A 2-bolt anchor on top with some new chains. Bring a couple of brass, and a wide selection of gear, mainly #2 Camalots and larger. Some runners for drag would help in your upward movement.

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