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Lost Horse Wall - Left Side
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Hesitation Blues 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Alan Roberts & Eric Gomper, 1987
Season: Faces Southwest
Page Views: 397
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 29, 2010

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Enjoying Hesitation Blues in blue.

Description 

This is an interesting route with a little of everything. Overall it is good rock, good protection, and climbs better than it looks. Detractors are getting to it (a little scrambling) and the grainy rock up top prior to the anchors.
Stem up the chimney to a chockstone overhead. Place a piece or two in good stone, then start moving up and out the roof. Place more gear and pull the crux, finger-locking up onto the chockstone (bomber) and onto good feet. Surmount the chock and head up and left to solid cracks. Finish left (softer grainy rock, but secure moves) or right (?better?) to a ledge at perhaps 70-80' up. A fixed belay/rap lies on the climbers' right hand side of this ledge, from which you can rap to the base.

Location 

This route lies about 20 meters left of Just Another Crack From LA. It ascends a gaping slot facing south on the right side of a dark tower on the left Lost Horse Rock.

Protection 

A set of cams and nuts from fingers to 3". 4" pro optional and might make the bottom feel well protected as opposed to simply 'adequate.'


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By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Dec 9, 2016

this is really fun. the chossy bits here and there do detract somewhat, but easy enough to bypass those and opt for the solid rock. cool stems, sweet jams, and airy athletic jug rail (right split) finish. rap anchor is a single thick rope slung around rock top with rap rings, looking good at moment, but prob needs reinforcing with an additional long webbing/cord at some point

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