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Unsorted Routes:

Hesitation Blues 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Chick Holtkamp and Bob Yoho, Steve Matous & Doug Cairns, 1975?
Page Views: 5,270
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Sep 16, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (97)
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Emily styling the first pitch.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


This amazing line is the first right of Friday the 13th on the Nautilus. The first pitch climbs fingerlocks, thin hands and lay-aways to a two bolt anchor at about 50 feet. The second pitch climbs the burly mostly fist crack to a fixed anchor at a horizontal crack below a capping roof. One can rappel here if the anchor is deemed suitable, move left to Friday the 13th or move right to Middle Parallel Space. The pitches can easily be combined (recommended) to entertain full enjoyment.


A standard rack including small camming devices (#1 to #2 Friends) for the fist pitch and larger camming devices for the upper pitch (up to #4 Camalot). At least double cams in the #1 to #3 Camalot sizes are/were useful in the sustained upper crack for those near their limit, myself included.

Photos of Hesitation Blues Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Guy H. onsights P1.
Guy H. onsights P1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Near the start.
Near the start.
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting into the crux.
Starting into the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Resting a little off the flake, mid crux.
Resting a little off the flake, mid crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: John Langston of Cheyenne/Laramie, WY on the first...
John Langston of Cheyenne/Laramie, WY on the first...

Comments on Hesitation Blues Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 19, 2016
By Brian Milhaupt
From: Golden, CO
Aug 25, 2002

The anchors at the top of pitch 2 was suitable to lower off to the two bolt belay atop pitch 1.
By Bob Rotert
Jul 26, 2004
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Great route, probably harder during the first ascent as the rock has sinced cleaned up from folks climbing it. I find the 11b rating off compared to some other 11b Veedauwoo climbs. Example would be if you compare this to one if it's neighbor climbs, Ghost Dance which is also rated 11b. I think you will find Ghost Dance substantailly harder.. Now if one and which one should have it's rating changed I will leave open to comment.

If you watch the rope drag you can lead this thing in one pitch to the top. Need some slings and a long sling for when you move left at the top of the crack.
By willem
Sep 15, 2004

The anchor atop P2 is 2 good nuts and an old punded angle, all lovingly equalized with a single link. Bring some webbing if ya' like. Or perhaps a drill and bolts?
By nolteboy
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 15, 2005

I used to think the grade on this was a bit soft, then last summer I got on it and almost got my ass handed to me on a platter. The upper half is burly and beautiful.
By TimBoLiyah
Jun 10, 2006

Truly a classic Voo crack. Sadly the first pitch is over rated, but the second is right on. With its big moves and tricky stems, it holds the grade. As for the anchors, the webbing is a little scary, oh well.
By Brian Weinstein
Apr 23, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Pitch 2 is a classic, must-do at the grade. Well worth the technical first half.
By abc
May 20, 2007

The upper pitch can be stemmed and climbed without a single jam, which feels much less burly.
By climber73
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 14, 2007

Did the first pitch last night and set up a TR for some friends. Technical and sequency 5.10. The 2nd pitch looks amazing!! Planning to go back and get on it soon...
By Brian Adzima
From: San Francisco
Sep 30, 2007

So, why are there nice anchors 1/2 way up the pitch and tat at the end?
By Greg Smith
From: Canon City, CO
Apr 1, 2008

The first ascent was done by Chick Holtkamp.
By Karsten Duncan
From: Sacramento, CA
Jun 30, 2008

First Ascent was Chick Holtkamp and Bob Yoho, Chick led it first.
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Jul 21, 2008
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

This route is amazing, the best I have climbed at the grade in Vedauwoo. Definitely combine both pitches. The first pitch if good but the second pitch is the icing on the cake. I found the second pitch to be mostly good hands which is a #2 Camalot for me.
By Steve Matous
Oct 12, 2010

Doug Cairns and I did what we thought to be the FA summer of 1975, named for the song of the same name done by Hot Tuna in the '70s.
By monkeyvanya
From: Denver, CO
Aug 3, 2011

I found second pitch best protectable with #3 cams as I leapfrogged my only 3 for a good half of it. Climbing is never the less mostly #2 hands.
By Nick Stayner
From: Wymont Kingdom
Sep 3, 2012

Like a harder version of Outer Limits in Yosemite.
By cstebbins024
From: Laramie, WY
Sep 8, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The anchor, made of webbing, at the top of the second pitch has been replaced with a stainless steel Fixe anchor.
By michalm
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 27, 2015
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

One of the best routes I've done at Vedauwoo and earns 11- when linked as one pitch. The first pitch is pumpy and technical, and the second is much more physical and awkward than it appears at first glance. I recommend 1 each of C4 #2-4 for the second pitch, although the #4 is optional and can be dumped off quickly. I got pumped on the first pitch and stayed ridiculously pumped until the anchors. Good thing the jams were good hands and cups.
By Katie Foster
From: Laramie, Wy
Oct 19, 2015
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

This feels easier than any other 11s I have done in the area, though it's only the 2nd that I've personally led it. I had to borrow a couple extra #3s for the 2nd pitch to make it comfortable but found the overhung fist jamming to be about as fun as it gets.
By A-W
Nov 6, 2015

Quite soft for 5.11 but a nice climb. Not a big fan of the vertically stacked bolted anchor at the top. I agree with it in theory, but it ended up being not fully redundant and a bit of a cluster. Same kind of anchor on Nemo's first pitch.
By khoa
From: Tacomarado
Jun 19, 2016

A 60m gets you down from P2's anchors.

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