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Hero Route 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
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Page Views: 253
Submitted By: Chuck Parks on Jul 4, 2016

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Bindal following the pitch 1 traverse on the Hero ...

Don't trespass outside SCC boundaries MORE INFO >>>

Description 

If you're only going to do one climb off the A0 ledge, this should be the one. Both pitches are super-fun.

P1) Traverse straight left off the belay ledge, following a series of bolts just above the lip of the roof. Finish at a small stance and a 2-bolt anchor. Unless you are solid at the grade, I recommend both leader and follower bring Prusiks. A fall could easily leave you hanging in outer space below the roof. (5.10b/c, 30ft.)

P2) Climb straight up off the belay. Exciting moves, gobs of exposure, and the occasional route finding crux keep you on your toes all the way to the anchors. (5.10b/c, 60ft.)

Location 

First pitch traverses straight left off the A0 Ledge for about 30 feet to bolted anchors. P2 goes straight up from there.

Protection 

bolts, bolted anchors

We easily made it all the way to the ground from the top anchors, but I can't remember if we had a 60 or 70 meter rope. If there's any doubt, you could rap down in 2 pitches but be careful as the wall is slightly overhanging.

Also be advised that the landing zone for the descent can be a minefield of poison ivy. As long as you pay attention and don't go thrashing about willy-nilly you'll be fine.


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By Denmark Blount
From: Duluth, GA
Jul 4, 2016

Rock Climbing Photo: Chuck belaying from hanging belay; Bindal ready to...
Chuck belaying from hanging belay; Bindal ready to leave belay ledge.


Rock Climbing Photo: Chuck leading pitch 2.
Chuck leading pitch 2.


Rock Climbing Photo: Bindal pink-pointing pitch 2.
Bindal pink-pointing pitch 2.

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