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Herniated Bone 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Clark and Greenberg, 2005
Page Views: 54
Submitted By: david goldstein on Nov 28, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Is it just me, or are ORG slab routes always hard for the grade?

A very sustained pitch with good variety that is slightly marred by a little bit of decomposing rock near the top.

Steep moves getting to the 1st bolt (10c) followed by a couple of hard moves pulling onto the slab (10c), easing off a bit then cruxing getting to the 4th bolt. Some easier climbing on the edge of slab gets you to an interesting undercling/roof move which does not seem correctly bolted as a fall here could swing you into the slab. A couple of steep, fun moves involving a crack, decomposing rock for the left foot and bomber stone on the right finish off the climbing.

Location 

The leftmost route on the right sector of WOW, starting behind the northernmost trestle support.

Protection 

8 bolts. Might want a stick clip for the first. Also might want to put a short draw on the 6th and make sure the belayer is paying attention at this point.


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By Tom Helvie
From: Bishop, CA
Dec 6, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The .11a route to the right felt much easier. Both cruxes are on the slab and Herniated Bone's crux is significantly harder.
By Zachary
Jul 10, 2009
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

This route is one of the scariest climbs I have ever done.

The chossy feet up at the top of it do not inspire confidence when trying to avoid decking on the slab!
By Zachary
Jul 10, 2009
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13

Also I would agree that the rating seems fairly sandbagged. Perhaps some of the holds on the slab have broken off since it was originally rated?

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