REI Community
Hermit Canyon

Select Area...
Campsite East 
Campsite West 
Hermit Shack Wall 
Second Tier 

Hermit Canyon Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 5,460'
Location: 39.24614, -113.40319 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,297
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Will Maxwell on May 11, 2010  with updates from Ken Noyce
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Area Map for Marjum canyon.


The southern end of the west face of Antelope Mountain holds untold potential for high quality limestone climbing. At the base of the same sub canyon that the Marjumhorn resides, you will find the old hermits cave. You will also find the most protected spot in the canyon to hide from those brutal west desert winds. The entrance to this canyon makes the most logical campground, and with that comes some route development that here we will call "The Campsite Area." There are maybe a dozen sport routes surrounding the camping area that are all in the 50 foot range, most easily top-rope-able. On the Lower West face proper, maybe a 5 minute walk up east of the campsite there are some routes that grant access to the upper west face.
This area has some major potential, with short approaches.

Getting There 

This area is the last on the right hand (north) side as you drive west through Marjum canyon. Good camping and climbing right at the mouth of this northern sub-canyon.

Climbing Season

For the House Range area.

Weather station 40.6 miles from here

16 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Hermit Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Hermit Canyon:
The Boys from Provo   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport   Campsite East
Nobody's Darlings   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 215'   Second Tier
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Hermit Canyon

Featured Route For Hermit Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Nobody's Darlings route map.

Nobody's Darlings 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  Utah : West Desert : ... : Second Tier
On a wall above the campsite, and above all of the short sport climbs, Reid and I put up a route that we named "Nobody's Darlings." It is an easy 5.10 that goes for two long pitches over 24 bolts. The first pitch is about 115' and starts right off with a slab crux and moves into a hanging flake / layback, it then cruises up some moderate face climbing on perfect crimps. As you move up the bolts start to space out, and the upper crux is a heady bit of crimping that eases up to the first belay. 13...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Comments on Hermit Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jason Stevens
From: Ephraim, UT
Jan 21, 2012
A better name for this area might be Hermit Canyon. Anybody agree?
By Ben Folsom
Jan 21, 2012
By grk10vq
Jan 22, 2012
yes, objections?
By Jared Nielson
Jan 23, 2012
You have my vote. I think Hermit Canyon better suits the area.
By Ken Noyce
From: Layton, UT
Oct 17, 2013
This area really needs to be subdivided so that it makes more sense. I would propose having the following sub sections: Campsite East, Campsite West, Hermit Shack Wall, and Nobody's Darlings Wall. These are all seperate walls and it would be much easier to figure out where things are if it were subdivided.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About