REI Community
Christian Brothers - East Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Am I Evil? S 
Asterisk, The T 
Attic Antics T 
Barbecue The Pope S 
Blasphemy S 
Blue Balls T 
Bowling Alley T 
Boy Prophet S 
Charlie's Chimney T 
Child's Play T 
Choke On This S 
Culture of Fear S 
Dancer S 
Deep Splash S 
Double Trouble S 
Dreamin' S 
Earth Boys S 
El Sancho S 
Fright Night S 
Golgotha T 
Gothic Cathedral/Last Gasp T 
Heathen's Highway T,S 
Heresy S 
Hesitation Blues T 
Holy Road, The S 
Irreverence S 
Jete S 
Kathleen Finds An Edge S 
La Shootist S 
left side of the Beard, The T 
Lightsaber S 
Little Indian Princess S 
Lunatic To Love S 
Mark Cartier Memorial (MCM) Route , The S 
New Testament T 
Nightingale's on Vacation S 
Old Testament T 
Overnight Sensation S 
Panic Attack S 
Rawhide S 
Return of the Redeye S 
Revelations S 
right side of the Beard, The T 
Ring of Fire S 
Rude Boys S 
Rude Femmes S 
Scarface S 
Self Preservation Variation T 
Shoes of the Fisherman T 
Smooth Boy S 
That 10d S 
That First Step S 
Toy Blocks T 
Toys In The Attic T 
Via Dolorosa S 
Wartley's Revenge T 


YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Ryan Lawson, 1999
Season: Year Round
Page Views: 7,638
Submitted By: Karsten Duncan on Feb 2, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (113)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
The Dyno Variation

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


A new classic!!! Heresy starts on a flake just left of the Shoes of the Fisherman. Move up and heelhook your way left on huge huecos. Some stick clip first bolt. Move up steep powerful moves on good edges. The crux comes just before the anchors. There are several ways to finish this pumpy climb but any way that you finish you'll have a crowd clapping when your done.



Photos of Heresy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Adal Bermann on Heresy 5.11c
Adal Bermann on Heresy 5.11c
Rock Climbing Photo: Heresy crux
BETA PHOTO: Heresy crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting heresy
BETA PHOTO: Starting heresy
Rock Climbing Photo: Last move on the (successful) red point attempt.
Last move on the (successful) red point attempt.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jerad Friedrichs on Heresy
Jerad Friedrichs on Heresy
Rock Climbing Photo: Last move is tricky
Last move is tricky
Rock Climbing Photo: Heresy
Rock Climbing Photo: Heresy
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt Johnson on "Heresy" at Smith Rock, ...
Matt Johnson on "Heresy" at Smith Rock, ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Clip!
Rock Climbing Photo: clippin'
Rock Climbing Photo: First attempted and red pointed 5.11.
First attempted and red pointed 5.11.
Rock Climbing Photo: getting past the first clip.
getting past the first clip.
Rock Climbing Photo: Heresy 5.11c
Heresy 5.11c
Rock Climbing Photo: clipping the third bolt.
clipping the third bolt.

Comments on Heresy Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 20, 2016
By mark d
Mar 11, 2006

everybody likes it.
By Bryson Slothower
Mar 23, 2006
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

nobody clapped when I was done...
By bryans
Aug 11, 2006

It's hard to call any route under 30 feet a classic. But this climb does leave you wanting more - and wishing there were more steep yet crimpy sub-5-12 climbs like it at Smith.
By Bickle
May 25, 2009
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

the route should be called frat house
By ferrells
Dec 10, 2009

I agree that this is a great route. It's odd that some have such a negative view of it.
The character of it is certainly different from most of Smith, but I hardly think of this as a reason to deride it. I don't know about the rest of you guys (and gals), but I like it that there's a moderate route in the main area that is clean, fun, and bouldery, and doesn't take thirty minutes for two people to do it.
By Costigan
Mar 7, 2011

If one claims not to like it he or she is a liar. Who doesn't enjoy a nice flat area to chill on and a jungle gym to dick around on?
By Derrick Peppers
From: everywhere
Apr 8, 2011

We did this route with snow falling and blood dripping from a failed Dino straight up the last section. The technical finish works better... Trust me.
By Mike Rowley
From: Boise, Idaho
Feb 15, 2012

IF you can do it, the dyno is the way to go by far. Adds a GREAT ending without the holds to the left. Set the feet WAY higher than you think you need to, and JUMP!! Just make sure to really stare at that hold, or youre gonna miss! Good luck.
By T Rundle
From: Belltown
Feb 12, 2013

Nice change from everything else at Smith
By Toby Butterfield
From: Portland, OR
Feb 24, 2014

I once saw a guy trying to stick clip the chains on this.
By Maxm
Aug 18, 2014

Loved it! climbs like a V5 highball.
By bheller
From: SL UT
Aug 19, 2014

"Loved it! climbs like a V5 highball."

Your counting is wrong- but only by two V grades.
By Finn Foster
Oct 5, 2015
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

This route is the silliest route in this area. It's definitely a classic, but I wish there was more going up. It'll makes you feel good when you climb this as your first 11b/c.
By Josh Golden Eagle
Mar 20, 2016


Gate failed on one of the permadraws / fixed anchor hardware yesterday when I was lowering partner yesterday, and the rope popped out of 1 of the 2 permadraws. Earlier the gate looked partly open and seemed to be damaged. I should have hung my own quickdraws at the anchor instead.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · People · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About