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Here Today Gone Tomorrow  

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
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Page Views: 205
Submitted By: Curt MacNeill on Jan 31, 2016

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Description 

Start as for Butt Flambé, and free solo up the low angled/slab ramp to a set of anchors at 35 feet. From here, hang a long sling and traverse right to clip the first bolt of the route. After clipping the first bolt, easily reach back and unclip the anchor sling. From the ledge, climb straight up the striking arête, using opposing sidepulls in the crack and the arête. At about 80 feet, surmount a chossy ledge (tons of loose rock) and look up. From here, a few more clips on a looming/ overhanging white and black streaked bulge protect the chains. Although the holds are very positive and juggy, a pump sets in due to the steepness. Feel the exposure as you crank the overhanging prow at the top with the river far down below.

Despite never seeing anyone on this thing in all the years I have been going to Shelf, I thought it was quite fun movement and spectacular position.

CAUTION - a 70 meter rope is required to lower to the ground.

Location 

It is left of There Goes the Neighborhood.

Protection 

10 bolts/ 2 bolts anchor.


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