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Loggerhead Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Agricultural Manuvers in the Dark T 
Chester the Molester S 
Chow Chow Chow T 
Conquest of the Stud Monkey T 
Drunk Tank T 
Edge-u-cator T 
Goodhead S 
Hammerhead T 
Happy's Favorite T 
Here on the Inside T 
Lagerhead T 
Le Nocturne T 
Log Jam T 
Loggerhead Ledge Route T 
Material Girl S 
Orange Juice Avenue T 
Simian Sex T 
Sink Like A Stone S 
Sober Up T 
Sorry Poopsie T 
Sow Sow Sow T 
Stay Lady Stay Back T 
Swillar Pillar T 

Here on the Inside 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Urmas Franosch and Bruce Morris (1983)
Page Views: 236
Submitted By: Bryan G on Apr 7, 2015

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is probably the best climb at Loggerhead. A bit dirty in spots, but the quality of climbing and sustained challenges more than make up for that. Full-value 5.11a.

From Sow Sow Sow, leave the base of the cliff and follow cairns up the talus for 100 ft then cut back left to the base of the wall at a major corner system. Here on the Inside starts up this corner (same start as Chow Chow Chow), then cuts left under a roof at 25 ft. You then climb up through a some mungy rock to get into a beautiful and continuous corner. Follow this for quite a ways, passing one piton, and finally lieback out an dirty overhang to mantel onto a ledge on the right. Climb a bit further up easy hand and fist cracks to a pedestal with a bolted anchor.

Make two rappels with one 70m rope to get down.

Protection 

Many pieces from tiny to 2". A triple set of cams from .5" to 1.25" would be nice. This pitch is really long and sustained so most people will probably want a lot of gear.


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