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Hercules Finger

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Hercules Finger Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 3,600'
Location: 34.5842, -116.8125 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 8,766
Administrators: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: C Miller on Nov 4, 2006
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North of Lucerne Valley, and somewhat hidden in the middle of nowhere, is this uniquely shaped 70' free-standing formation with half a dozen routes ranging from 5.7-5.12 on quality high desert granite. More rock exists nearby but most of it's of dubious quality.

There is a fair bit of driving on dirt roads to get there but even so a 2wd vehicle (with clearance) should have no trouble making the drive as long as you're careful.

Getting There 

East of the town of Lucerne Valley turn north onto Camp Rock Rd. and follow it for 6.2 miles where it will turn to dirt (the formation will now be visible off to your left on a distant hillside). Continue on Camp Rock Rd. for another 3.7 miles and make a left onto marked road OM30 near some off-road kiosks (the formation is now hidden behind some low hills).

Follow OM30 for 2.0 miles to an intersection at some power lines with marked road OM10. Drive road OM10, following the power lines, as it goes up a hill and along a ridge where the formation will come back into view. After 2.2 miles make a right onto a dirt road past an obvious balanced boulder (rocky and off-camber road not suitable for long vehicles) or continue for another 0.2 miles to another road near a power line tower (bumpy but a much better road). It's another 0.5 miles slightly uphill to a parking area just below the base of the formation.

Climbing Season

Weather station 6.5 miles from here

5 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Hercules Finger

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Hercules Finger:
Limp Side   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport   North Side
Pecker Wrecker Arete   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   North Side
The Main Vein   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   South Side
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Hercules Finger

Featured Route For Hercules Finger
Rock Climbing Photo: Shield Your Eyes. Photo by Blitzo.

Shield Your Eyes 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b  California : High Desert : ... : South Side
Starting from an obvious hueco/undercling work up the slightly overhung face/arete with tricky balance moves and some thin pulls....[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Hercules Finger Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: From the powerline road
From the powerline road
Rock Climbing Photo: Interesting climb
Interesting climb
Rock Climbing Photo: Ally Cat working up Limp Side.
Ally Cat working up Limp Side.
Rock Climbing Photo: herc
Rock Climbing Photo: View from W/NW
View from W/NW
Rock Climbing Photo: View of the north face aka Limp Side
View of the north face aka Limp Side
Rock Climbing Photo: Hercules Finger. Photo by Blitzo.
Hercules Finger. Photo by Blitzo.

Comments on Hercules Finger Add Comment
Show which comments
By The Freehlings
Jul 8, 2011
The lat/long above aren't accurate; no big deal because we had a great time off-roading for a few hours searching for the Finger.

Lat: 34.584240
Lon: 116.812530
By bmdhacks
Sep 13, 2012
Looks like the lat/long has been fixed.

The directions given are a bit complex. I just took Camp Rock Road north and turned right on the powerline road. Followed the powerline until I could see Hercules Finger on the left and parked as close as I could get. The sand is deep in places so be careful with your vehicle selection. I took 2wd Ford Escape with bald tires and made it pretty close.

This google maps route is how I did it:
By NeilB
From: Tehachapi, CA
Apr 12, 2014
As of 2/2/14 the bolts at the top are old spinners with huge rings. Not a trustworthy rap anchor in my opinion. So, just be aware of the runout if you want to top out.

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