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The Citadel
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anticipation T 
Arch Rival T 
Clem's Folly T 
Finger Breakers TR 
Finger Zinger S 
Glad We Came S 
Hercamur Snurd T 
Iron Worker T 
Little Diddle T 
Murray's Crack T 
Nose, The T 
Romper Room T 
Second Thoughts T 
Stem Cell Research T 
Styx n Stones T 
West Ridge T 
Whole Banana T 
Wish You Were Here T 

Hercamur Snurd 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c PG13 [details]
FA: Mark Gillis et. al. ca 1979
Page Views: 71
Submitted By: Karl Kiser on Mar 7, 2016

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Description 

People climb the first two pitches and rap. The 5.11 third pitch has been climbed only a few times and should be considered X now given the old bolts on the route. The first three pitches were short, definitely less than half a 50m rope.

p1: face climb left and up, clip a bolt, and pull the bulge. Continue up to the fixed belay. Originally this was a 5.9 pitch (better to think of as 5.10a).

p2: slab climb right past a couple of bolts and go to a corner. Climb into a shallow dihedral, pass a fixed pin, and reach the headwall. Traverse left, exposed, to another fixed anchor. This was another 5.9 pitch better thought of as 5.10a today. Lower to the first anchor and let the second person clean the route. Both persons can rap from this station to the ground.

p3: another shorter pitch with a couple of fixed pieces. This is the crux pitch and is currently unsafe until someone replaces the old fixed gear. The climbing consisted of hard face climbing and a mantle.

p4: this is a long pitch which simply goes to the top in the easiest fashion.

Location 

The route is uphill of Wish You Were Here about a third of the the way up the North Face gully. Rap the route (first two pitches) or go to the top and descend the east face rap.

Protection 

Standard Organ trad rack. There are some fixed pieces and fixed anchors at the top of the first and second pitches.


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