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Henry VIII S 

Henry VIII 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
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Page Views: 105
Submitted By: Serge Smirnov on Sep 5, 2016

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The good part of this route: The view from the anc...

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  • Description 

    Loose and fragile, should not be climbed when there are people freely roaming the base area.

    Two things mitigate the dangerousness of this route:

    1) It goes diagonally left, so the belayer can be positioned out of the path of most rocks dislodged by the leader.

    2) The hardest part - first ~20' - is relatively solid.

    Loose rock at the anchor - first person down should move away or hide under a roof before signaling "off rapppel", and the second person to rappel should avoid moving their feet until then.

    I cannot in good conscience recommend this route - it is not the kind of route people come to Smith for - but I enjoyed the "crappy alpine rock" adventure in a low-commitment setting with bolt protection.

    Location 

    Start in the shade behind a tree.

    Protection 

    10-12 bolts

    2-rope rappel (45m)


    Comments on Henry VIII Add Comment
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    By Erik Keever
    Sep 6, 2016

    There are two reasons to suffer through this route:
    • The view from the anchor is undeniably great
    • To try and reach the Walk On The Wild Side arete.

    Last time I tried pitch 2 was October 2 years ago... got 3 or 4 bolts up basically stemming up the chimney but trying to gain the face and reach the solid rock above all I did was rain debris on my poor belayer and knock off every foothold I tried to weight. Finally aborted mission when the one useful sidepull started crinkling loudly.

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