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Heng Chuan Corner 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 170'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Rob DeZonia and Mike DeZonia
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 488
Submitted By: Rob DeZonia on Sep 3, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: This is Mike standing below the huge corner.

Description 

This is a long pitch that can eat a double rack. It's a great warm up for the other routes up here.

Climb up 25 feet of easy ledges and blocks (5.4) to where the super clean rock starts and pull the first crux past the clean, right-facing corner. You can crush the corner or dance up the slab, both are 5.9. Continue up and around a small tree to a steeper section with a splitter in the corner and a crack to the right, perfect for stemming (5.8). This takes you to a jug rail and a little tree on the left. Pull the small bulge into a tricky and technical right facing corner. Work your way up corner to a litte roof with a clean corner out its right side (5.9). You can get a nice yellow Alien in a small horizontal crack below the roof to the left. Reach out left to a good hold and do a move up to a thank god jug (5.9+). Hand traverse back right to above the roof (5.6) and back into the corner. Climb the corner till about 20 or so feet from its top. You can go out right to crack (5.7 top out) or out left via a nice horizontal crack (5.8) and up a crack system to a tree belay (5.8). I like going out left.

When I first climbed this with my father, I was expecting a 5.6 or something. This has a lot of climbing on it and is an excellent 5.9 even with some dirt filled cracks.

Heng Chuan is the earth element in Hsingi Chuan, a Taoist martial art.

Location 

This is the huge, low angle, right-facing corner system.

Protection 

A double rack up to #2 Camalot is recomended. It's easy to run out of gear at the top. If you are about out of gear, take the right exit. I think you can protect pulling into the easy crack with a #0 Metolius.


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