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(n) Snake Rock
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A Desperate Man T 
Cling On T 
Don't Tread On Me S 
Don't tread on me finish S 
Hemp Liberation S 
Iguanas on Elm Street S 
Lords of Karma S 
Made in the Shade S 
Notice to Appear S 
Reptile T,TR 
Split Image S 

Hemp Liberation 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: John Collins, 1990
Page Views: 2,469
Submitted By: David Tvedt on Apr 13, 2006

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at the roof

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


This varied route is a first pitch that leads to a 2nd pitch (Lords of Karma- 12c). It's however, a very worthwhile jaunt in itself. It starts with easier pockets leading to a tricky traverse right and committing moves in the roof section as you move right to better holds(crux). A roof pull-over leads to easier finishing moves to the anchors.


The first sport route left of Made in the Shade and Split Image. Left of the crack line, A Desperate Man 5.9


Bolts (aprox. 5). Rap Anchors.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 24, 2017
By Bryson Slothower
May 16, 2006

The bolt that protects the crux is difficult to clip until committed to the roof...bolt placement seems odd.
Put a long sling on the bolt below the roof unless you like rope drag.
By bryans
Jun 20, 2006

I'm no fan of retrobolting, but this is the prime candidate at smith for it. it seems the bolts were thrown in randomly on rappel. great piece of stone, terrible fixed protection with the chance for some bad falls.
By Corey McCarthy
From: Redmond, OR
Nov 17, 2010

Not to sure about the previous posts, bolting is not bad by any means. pretty standard smith spacing. watch the first bolt, after that have fun. this is the best 10d i could ever imagine!
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Nov 17, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

+1 for not dangerous. The first bolt is high, but the climbing to it felt reasonable to me... After that expect having to make moves above bolts, but the rock is bomber and the falls are clean.
By Eric T.
From: St. Augustine, Florida
Dec 5, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I'd agree the falls aren't bad because I took a couple good ones. Cleaning the route if the second leads is a pain in the ass though.
By Scott Becker
From: Medford, Oregon
Jun 26, 2012

I can't believe how many times I've walked by this route without climbing it. Great climb. The only slightly sketchy part might be clipping the bolt below the roof (4th?) since you're on greasy edges and thin feet. This might be more trivial on a cooler day. Also, there are more bolts on this route than this page or the book shows, but it's easy to figure that out from the base of the route. Go do it!
By donggua
From: Corvallis, Oregon
May 12, 2013

if this is a 10d, i have to downgrade every other 10d i have done to 5.9, dont understand why its this hard for me, i totally lack some strength/technique or just didnt find the sequence to do the roof moves? there's a easy 5.10 move just above the 2nd bolt and then clip the bolt under the roof is insanely hard, making to the roof is not easy, over the roof is not easy, then move one move to the right is not easy, finally even the "easy" finish still feels like a balancy 5.10...

the bolt below the roof is hard to clip, really really hard... 6 bolts, not 5. not fun at all to clean on the way down...
By ccmski body
From: Seattle, WA
Jun 30, 2016
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Fun route. I'm 5'10 and could hang the draw and clip the bolt above the roof before committing to any roof moves- might be different if you are shorter, but with good footwork it shouldn't be much of an issue. Your feet are right above the 4th bolt, and the fall looks clean, so go for it! Probably not the best route to break into 10d on (he, he), especially if you just eeked out the OS of Moons of Pluto.
By Rod J.
From: Bend, OR
Oct 5, 2016
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Great route with a variety of moves. Hardest 10d in the park; harder than many 11a's. You will want to TR it (after the lead) to clean the draws.
By NarcissusEmbodied Sustrich
From: Portland, OR
Oct 23, 2016

Felt harder to me than several 11s I've been on, including vomit launch, pocket pool, and toxic. Seemed like the bolts were poorly placed in relation to the moves. Great/ fun movements though.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Aug 24, 2017

Fun climb.

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