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Hemlock Arete 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
Season: Spring-Fall
Page Views: 1,139
Submitted By: TomCaldwell on Sep 11, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Me onsighting Hemlock Arete. Photo credit to Keit...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


The crux is the pump. Get used to resting on your arms.

From the anchors of the Green Wall, step up to clip the first bolt on the slab apron. Step up and left onto the apron and follow large horizontals back and forth to reach the second bolt. A small hand sized piece can be placed before clipping the second bolt if the clip is too far. Make the bulge move to get to more of the same good holds and the third bolt just left of the arete. Pull around the arete to the left and catch a rest. Another small hand sized piece can be placed out left to protect the final hand traverse to the anchor. Step up from the rest and traverse right until you can gain the ledge with the bolts. For full value, do this in one pitch from the Green Wall and sling the anchors long.

Note: There is a semi-detached flake down and to the right of the third bolt. Some of the horizontals down low are really sharp and may pop.


This route is the overhanging arete directly above the Green Wall. A single 60m will get you back to the ground from the top.


Mostly bolts, some longer draws, and two small hand sized pieces. 2 bolts at the top with rap rings.

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By Billy Danger
From: Asheville, NC
May 31, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

My interpretation of the beta for this climb differs from the description. I brought a bunch of cams but didn't place any, however I'm comfortable at the grade. I did notice one could place a finger sized piece before the high first bolt. If leading it all in one pitch, I would recommend slinging the bolt at the first anchor and the first bolt on the headwall long. the route is fun and pumpy, with a crux at the top. Also, not that this really matters, but it's probably closer to 80 feet as opposed to 50.
By chummer
Sep 24, 2016

Cams are not necessary for the Hemlock arete. Anyone leading this climb who needs them should probably get a little more fitness and then come back. Also you don't need to use the big hollow flake at the top. Stay left. That flake is quite sketchy and yarding on it makes it a harder move anyway.
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Sep 26, 2016

I have a couple of partners in the low 5' range. This makes the clip at the first bulge kind of tough, and you could get jacked up if you pump out and miss it. There is a piece that can be clipped right at head level. I will take any guessing out of it and say we used a red and black metolius (tight/small hands range), which is between .5 and 1 camalot. Anyone who doesn't send because they carry a few extra cams needs to get some more fitness and come back, LOL. Also, the 50' is just for hemlock arete. It is probably 80'+ from the ground to the top. The first pitch is a different route.
By Big Bert
From: Golden, Colorado
Oct 8, 2016

Climb Green Wall (5.7) to base of Hemlock Arete. Classic Link up - 5 stars!!!

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