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Hemingway Buttress (East Face Left)

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ant Farm T 
Coyote Bait T 
Dung Fu T 
Feltonian Physics T 
Funky Dung T 
Golden Years T 
Hernie, Hernie, Hernie T 
Horn Dog T 
Man's Best Friend T 
Overseer T 
Pig in Heat T 
Poodles are People Too T 
Poodlesby T 
Prepackaged T 
Roadrunner, The T 
Rock Wren T 
Sea Monkeys T 
Smoke-a-Bowl T 
Such a Poodle T 
White Lightning T 

Hemingway Buttress (East Face Left)  Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 34.02386, -116.17782 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 12,666
Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Adam Stackhouse, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: C Miller on Oct 5, 2009
Forecast:
Overnight

43°
Sunday

63° | 39°
Monday

62° | 39°
Tuesday

65° | 38°
Wednesday

64° | 41°
Thursday

62° | 38°
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"Prepackaged". Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

This popular section of the wall extends from More Funky than Junky to The Sun Also Rises and is home to lots of moderate crack routes with a few face climbs in the harder grades. Some of the better routes here include White Lightning (5.7), Dung Fu (5.7), Feltonian Physics (5.8), Overseer (5.9), Rock Wren (5.10a), Prepackaged (5.10a), Poodles are People Too (5.10b) and The Roadrunner (5.11c).

Routes from left to right:

More Funky than Junky (5.10a)
The Roadrunner (5.11c)
Smoke-a-Bowl (5.9)
Rock Wren (5.10a)
Hernie, Hernie, Hernie (5.8)
Merry-Go-Round Broke Down (5.8)
Funky Dung (5.8)
Overseer (5.9)
Dung Fu (5.7)
Pig in Heat (5.10b R)
White Lightning (5.7)
Poodles are People Too (5.10b)
Man's Best Friend (5.9 TR)
Poodlesby (5.6)
Coyote Bait (5.7)
Such a Poodle (5.8+ R)
Golden Years (5.9+)
Feltonian Physics (5.8)
Gift Wrapped (5.10d TR)
Prepackaged (5.10a)
The Sun Also Rises (5.12b)



Getting There 

Park in the large paved lot off the main road and follow the signed path to the wall. The approach time is around 10 minutes from the car.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.2 miles from here

20 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',3],['5.8',5],['5.9',4],['5.10',6],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Hemingway Buttress (East Face Left)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Hemingway Buttress (East Face Left) :
White Lightning   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Dung Fu   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Feltonian Physics   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Funky Dung   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Overseer   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Smoke-a-Bowl   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Golden Years   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Prepackaged   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Poodles are People Too   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
The Roadrunner   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Hemingway Buttress (East Face Left)

Featured Route For Hemingway Buttress (East Face Left)
Rock Climbing Photo: Prepackaged

Prepackaged 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : Hemingway Buttress (East Fa...
This excellent route climbs the rightward diagonaling hand crack just to the right of Feltoneon Physics. Bring your guns for this sustained pitch of quality stone and great gear placement. Although the crux may be in the lower portion of the route, the ensuing pump will make the finish a challenge as well. Descend via standard rap anchors abeam White Lightning. Enjoy!...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Hemingway Buttress (East Face Left) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Geoff at the crux.  He was kind enough not to plac...
Geoff at the crux. He was kind enough not to plac...
Rock Climbing Photo: Nic at the big foot rest
Nic at the big foot rest
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up Poodles are People Too!
Starting up Poodles are People Too!
Rock Climbing Photo: Moving through the crimpy lower section. Photo by ...
Moving through the crimpy lower section. Photo by ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Eric cruising White Lightning
Eric cruising White Lightning

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