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Help with Euro Trip in September
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Jun 21, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Bolton, VT
Hey MP community,
So my lady and I are heading to Italy for a wedding and are taking September 2-9th to explore somewhere, hang at beaches, and do some climbing. I've been to Italy 12+ times so I generally know the climate, areas, etc but I wanted to reach out and get some opinions.
We'll either just rent a car on the mainland the whole time and take a ferry if need be or fly where we go.

Only real requirements are fully bolted climbs (not bringing my rack) and some options in the 4a-5b grade range for her. I'd also love some easy multi-pitch. Looking to make the decision now to book everything and purchase a guidebook.

Post up if you can offer any advice on what best fits those requirements, here's the options I've explored:

Sardinia (I've been to Cala Gonone, and know it's awesome)
Corsica
Malta
French Riviera
Northern Italy

Thanks all!
Nick
Nick Votto
Joined Jul 27, 2008
338 points
Jun 21, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Bolton, VT
Bump Nick Votto
Joined Jul 27, 2008
338 points
Jun 21, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: After a very very damp and cold evening climbing o...
try 8a.nu? that guy named seb
Joined Oct 24, 2015
182 points
Jun 21, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
Finale Ligure. Brian in SLC
Joined Oct 6, 2003
13,072 points
Jun 21, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Bolton, VT
Brian in SLC wrote:
Finale Ligure.


Brian I noticed you wrote the Finale page on MP. I actually wrote it off because I though it would be too warm there and the grades were all harder but now I'm realizing I was wrong. Good suggestion as I also work with a number of vineyards in Alba and Barolo close by....this will allow me to do some extra "work."

Now high on the list
Do you happen to have a preference between the "Finale 8.0" and the "Finale Climbing" guidebooks?
Nick Votto
Joined Jul 27, 2008
338 points
Jun 21, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing in Smuggler's Notch
I have the previous edition Finale 7.0 which is pretty good. Easy enough to navigate with and I liked the quality ratings.

I've heard good things about the other book and I have a number of Versante Sud guidebooks which I've liked as well.

Either one would work great.

Note that the adjacent areas are covered in the newer Oltrefinale guidebook. Always thought if I returned to the area I'd try to get to some of those other areas, but, in truth, the main Finale areas are superb and there's no shorage of routes across the grade ranges. The hang either nearer the beach in Finale Ligure or up by Finalborgo is great.

Temp's in early September? Might be hot in the sun, for sure, but there's so many crags with all aspects I'm sure you could chase the shade if need be. Plus, the Ligurian see will be delish.

Good food (ok, great food), via ferrata nearby and mountain biking, the sea...can't go wrong with Finale Ligure!
Brian in SLC
Joined Oct 6, 2003
13,072 points
Jun 22, 2016
Hijacking, sorry. Would Sardinia or Siciliy work in November? If so any preference? Name
Joined Sep 19, 2008
26 points
Jun 22, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Bolton, VT
Name wrote:
Hijacking, sorry. Would Sardinia or Siciliy work in November? If so any preference?


Sardinia would be prime for hard climbing in November. Of course chance of rain is higher but that's still not a huge chance. There's a multitude of elevations and aspects and thousands of crags so you'd be in good shape.

Super cheap flights from Roma to Cagliari and I believe Meridiana is now flying direct to Olbia, either way works as it's easy to get north>south or vice versa on the island.
Nick Votto
Joined Jul 27, 2008
338 points
Aug 24, 2016
I'll be in Sardinia September 9th through the 12th, in case anyone will be there.

Brian
Brian Schroeder
Joined Dec 29, 2011
0 points


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