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Help us plan a trip? (Part two - Flying to Reno, 1 week to spend)
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Aug 23, 2016
Hey guys. First of all, thanks to everyone who responded with advice in my first post a while back.

(Summary - We have 7 days in Late September, looking for long, easy, exposed multipitch. Flying from the East.)

We've decided the best option is to fly to Reno, spend 5 days climbing, then fly back. Maybe 2 days at Lover's Leap, 3 at Tuolumne Meadows. That leaves 1 day on either end to fly/drive where we need to. We're probably going to rent a van to sleep in.... UHaul for $19/day +mileage.

It's going to be super expensive for only 5 days of climbing... Plus Tuolumne will be 4+ hours away once we get off the plane. Tahoe is closer, but I don't know if there's 5 days-worth for us there.

So.... my question now... Do you guys still think it's worth it? It's going to be expensive, yes, and that really sucks.... but I'm talking about trying to cram this all into a week. Too much of a hassle? Anyone done this before?

Should we just book a cruise and risk zika?
Toad
Joined Oct 19, 2015
1 points
Aug 23, 2016
There is definitely 5 days worth of climbing around Tahoe. 2 or 3 days at Lover's Leap, a day at Phantom Spires, then a day at either Sugarloaf or something near north Tahoe (and closer to Reno), maybe Donner Summit?

Tuolumne Meadows will be getting chilly in late September in the evenings and early mornings. Still probably quite climbable during the day, but save yourself all the driving.

If you're really wanting to check out Tuolumne, go for it. Beautiful scenery, great climbing.

Don't go for the cruise! Unless they have a climbing wall. :)

Edit: Pick up this guidebook for all the South Lake Tahoe climbing:

supertopo.com/packs/southlaket...
FrankPS
From Atascadero, CA
Joined Nov 19, 2009
284 points
Aug 23, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Lovers Leap
Check out Enterprise, they usually have a good rate on any vehicle. You could buy a cheap tent if you are not bringing one. Renting a Uhaul van and driving it to Lovers and Tuolumne would cost a fortune. Plenty of climbing to be had at Lovers Leap, Donner Summit, and Tuolumne Meadows. live_it
From Mammoth Lakes, Ca
Joined Jun 30, 2009
370 points
Aug 23, 2016
I think you have a good plan personally. Is the Uhaul cheaper than just getting an economy car (when you calculate gas as well as increased driving time - typically you're only cruising 60 max in a Uhaul box van)?

Tuolumne Meadows is only a little over 3 hours from Reno, and Tuolumne is about a 3 hour drive to the Leap so the drive time isn't excessive and if you're coming all the way across the country to climb in the Sierra and you don't make a 3 hour drive to Yosemite you're blowing it in my opinion.

If you stick to southern facing routes in Tuolumne you'll be fine and even if you only ticked off Cathedral and Matthes while you were there the trip down would be worth it if you hadn't been to the Yosemite High Country. Just make sure you have time to chill in a hot spring off the 395 on your way back up to Tahoe. Then spend the rest of your time at the Leap doing the classics with a trip to Phantom Spires if you want a fun day of cragging with some pretty unique rock formations.
Tapawingo
Joined Feb 1, 2012
86 points
Aug 24, 2016
Tapawingo wrote:
Is the Uhaul cheaper than just getting an economy car (when you calculate gas as well as increased driving time - typically you're only cruising 60 max in a Uhaul box van)?


I think so... It's like their sprinter van, $19/day plus mileage. Can sleep in it, too.
Toad
Joined Oct 19, 2015
1 points
Aug 24, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: artsy racking up
Fly to reno, rent what ever car is the cheapest. buy a 3 person tent at walmart for $35 walmart.com/ip/Tahoe-Gear-Will...
Keep the receipt so you can return tent before you fly home.
Drive from Reno to tuolumne meadows and climb cathedral peak. day 1
get up early and climb Matthis crest and pack car drive to Tahoe. Day 2
sleep in, climb Surrealist pillar to Corregation corner. Day 3 (Sur Pill Dir, to Hospital Corner best at10 B)
sleep in climb Bears reach, Haystack, East wall, and The Line Day 4
Get up Early climb Travellar Buttress Pack car drive to Reno return tent and go to Airport Day 5

Follow this and you will climb IMO the most classic moderates in those areas. up to 5.9. with the little time you have.
If you can sneak in a half day of cragging at Phantom spires it will truly be worth it.
Couch surfing is a good idea for the Tahoe area . Always had great success with this. There is amazing double secret free camping at the Leap. If you are worthy you will find it.

Safe climbing
Michael Butts
From Boulder, Co
Joined Nov 1, 2010
209 points
Aug 24, 2016
Toad wrote:
Maybe 2 days at Lover's Leap, 3 at Tuolumne Meadows. That leaves 1 day on either end to fly/drive where we need to. We're probably going to rent a van to sleep in.... UHaul for $19/day +mileage.



This is a good distribution of that amount of time. Lovers Leap and Tuolumne are both exceptionally worthy destinations, especially given that you are seeking moderate multipitch. Of the two, Tuolumne is definitely more worthy-- it is more scenic, and the number of different crags to visit is much higher.If you were to decide to only visit one area, TM would be the better choice. But the Leap is super fun too. So the 2 days at the Leap, and 3 days at Tuolumne works out perfectly.

Climbing 5 full days in a row can be hard, so you could also plan on 2 full days at the Leap, then a rest/driving/groceries/showers/sightseeing day, then 2 full days at TM.

Both have great weather in late September (contrary to the poster above, Tuolumne is lovely in late September, provided you like cool weather).

Don't do the U-Haul thing. The $19/day rate is a misleading figure that sucks you in. They then hit you with a bunch of extra charges, and the mileage rates add up fast. Just fly out with a tent and get a cheap compact rental car.
JCM
From Seattle, WA
Joined Jun 9, 2008
65 points
Aug 24, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: First Belay Moonlight
Just did a high Sierra Thaoe/Yosemite trip early June. Leap was ok. But really liked Tuolumne! Also the Valley is not far maybe make loop Hit Tuolumne-valley up the west side to the leap then back to Reno... walmongr
From Gilbert AZ
Joined Aug 8, 2015
86 points
Aug 24, 2016
Michael Butts wrote:
Keep the receipt so you can return tent before you fly home.


Don't be the guy that does this type of unethical stunt.
FrankPS
From Atascadero, CA
Joined Nov 19, 2009
284 points
Aug 24, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing at the Gallery in Red Rocks
JCM wrote:
The $19/day rate is a misleading figure that sucks you in. They then hit you with a bunch of extra charges, and the mileage rates add up fast. Just fly out with a tent and get a cheap compact rental car.


This, a U-Haul will end up costing you way more than an economy rental car, even if you purchase a tent (and keep it like a non-douchebag). The mileage rates add up fast with a U-Haul, with a rental car, you may pay a bit more up front, but the unlimited miles will be worth it.
kennoyce
From Layton, UT
Joined Aug 12, 2010
2,061 points
Aug 24, 2016
walmongr wrote:
Leap was ok.


Do you like climbing?
Tapawingo
Joined Feb 1, 2012
86 points
Aug 24, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: First Belay Moonlight
Tapawingo wrote:
Do you like climbing?


Yes just ok.. I like my ankles and not being cheese grated just seamed like their was always a dike or something to bounce off of or land or get caught on if you fall...Just not my favorite place compared to Tuolumne or The Valley.
walmongr
From Gilbert AZ
Joined Aug 8, 2015
86 points
Aug 25, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: artsy racking up
FrankPS wrote:
Don't be the guy that does this type of unethical stunt.


Shoot Dang!
It was just meant to be a joke. But Im offended that you called me unethical.
Rock Climbing Photo: I am offended
I am offended

Michael Butts
From Boulder, Co
Joined Nov 1, 2010
209 points


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