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help me with what to buy
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Sep 14, 2016
Hey All,

There are two cambodian guys who have been developing some new routes around the country over the past few years but have been having trouble getting bolts.

I'm flying back to the US in early November and have volunteered to bring back a suitcase full of bolts and hangers. I've never bolted before and I'm looking for some advice on what to buy.

They have a few drills they've been using but I'm having trouble getting clear info from them (language barrier) about whether they have a 10 mm, 3.8", 12 mm, or 1/2" bit. My plan was to buy at least a couple back up bits for them anyways for whatever size bolt I end up buying.

So first question: for bolting in limestone far away from any saltwater exposure, what is the most cost effective bolt?

In my research so far it looks like 3/8" are the easiest to buy from US vendors. I was looking at stainless steel but I'm wondering if plated would be ok in this application.

What length is suitable?

Other big question - what's the best website to use to buy ~40 of these bolts and hangers?

Thanks everyone for your help, hopefully these bolts will help encourage the burgeoning youth climbing scene here and maybe give us expats something to get excited about without having to cross the border into Thailand.
tshapiro1182
Joined Oct 25, 2014
0 points
Sep 14, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Pea...
I think you're going to have to stick with all stainless, with both hangers and bolts. It's pretty tropical in Cambodia and they will see a lot more moisture than say Shelf Road here in Colorado. It's entirely possible that the routes could end up like the early ones on Thailand that corroded within a decade. I can't remember the entire history of that place, but someone here might know.

In any case, the Fixe stainless hangers seem to be available for a good price.

fixehardware.com/shop/hangers/...

As for the bolts, this is the bolt I would use in limestone. Wedge bolts are more for harder rock like granite.

fixehardware.com/shop/bolts/po...

As you can see, it's pricey, but it would last longer. If you just want to go with plated steel and tell them to expect to replace the bolts sooner, that's up to you.
Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,669 points
Sep 14, 2016
I don't have data on sea salt spray for Cambodia, but in general there is an exponential relationship between distance and amount of salt in the air. I'd use titanium on any routes 1km from any coastline. Possibly further if its a particuarly windy area or gets a lot of typhoons.

There are glue in titanium bolts. A UK company makes them for about $13 for a glue in. You might be able to source bolts from a thai rebolting project thaitaniumproject.com/climbing...
Fortuna Wolf
From Durham, NC
Joined Mar 27, 2016
20 points
Sep 14, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Pea...
Titanium glue ins would be the best application for sure. Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,669 points
Sep 14, 2016
rapbolting.com has both SS and Titanium stateside. Better hangers and bolts IMO. :) Chris Vinson
Joined Jul 9, 2012
67 points
Sep 14, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing at the Gallery in Red Rocks
tshapiro1182 wrote:
Hey All, There are two cambodian guys who have been developing some new routes around the country over the past few years but have been having trouble getting bolts. I'm flying back to the US in early November and have volunteered to bring back a suitcase full of bolts and hangers. I've never bolted before and I'm looking for some advice on what to buy. They have a few drills they've been using but I'm having trouble getting clear info from them (language barrier) about whether they have a 10 mm, 3.8", 12 mm, or 1/2" bit. My plan was to buy at least a couple back up bits for them anyways for whatever size bolt I end up buying. So first question: for bolting in limestone far away from any saltwater exposure, what is the most cost effective bolt? In my research so far it looks like 3/8" are the easiest to buy from US vendors. I was looking at stainless steel but I'm wondering if plated would be ok in this application. What length is suitable? Other big question - what's the best website to use to buy ~40 of these bolts and hangers? Thanks everyone for your help, hopefully these bolts will help encourage the burgeoning youth climbing scene here and maybe give us expats something to get excited about without having to cross the border into Thailand.


Honestly, I'm guessing that in Cambodia you will suffer from SCC regardless of how close you are to the ocean. The problem is that in a tropical environment, the vegetation on top of the cliff will leach chlorides into the rain water that runs down the face of the cliff and will cause even stainless bolts to fail in a short amount of time. Personally, I wouldn't bolt with anything but titanium in any southeast Asian country. You can get titanium bolts either at titanclimbing.com or rapbolting.com. I know this is a more expensive route to go, but if you want the routes to last and be safe, it's the only sure way to do it. Good luck.
kennoyce
From Layton, UT
Joined Aug 12, 2010
2,061 points
Administrator
Sep 14, 2016
Fortuna Wolf wrote:
I don't have data on sea salt spray for Cambodia, but in general there is an exponential relationship between distance and amount of salt in the air. I'd use titanium on any routes 1km from any coastline. Possibly further if its a particuarly windy area or gets a lot of typhoons. There are glue in titanium bolts. A UK company makes them for about $13 for a glue in. You might be able to source bolts from a thai rebolting project thaitaniumproject.com/climbing...

The UIAA has reported cases of SCC as far as 20km inland. I would not use 1km as the threshold as salt can travel much further inland than just 1km.
20 kN
From Hawaii
Joined Feb 2, 2009
1,214 points
Sep 14, 2016
Thanks for the help everyone

we are bolting near the middle of the country (well over 100 km from the coast)

It would be great if we could do titatium glue ins but the reality is that we 1. can't afford them and 2. don't have the experience to set them.

I decided to get 3/8" stainless bolts and hangers for routes and 1/2" bolts with rings for anchors from fixe.

If anyone feels like a vacation to southeast asia and wants to help put up some new lines I'll be happy to buy you all the cheap cambodain beer you can drink.

Hopefully we'll be able to get these up in the next couple months

thanks again
tshapiro1182
Joined Oct 25, 2014
0 points
Administrator
Sep 14, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Me and the offspring walking back to the car after...
Wait until you can afford titanium. Cost savings up front buying stainless will be more than buried with the cost of replacing them when they start to corrode long before any bolt should, not to mention the danger to other climbers a few years down the road, and man hours. Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Joined Jul 30, 2011
1,231 points


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