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Helmet Variation 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tom Howard and partner
Page Views: 1,280
Submitted By: Joseph Brown on Oct 23, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


P1: Climb straight up the face to double anchors shared with "Slippin into Darkness". Plenty of side pulls and foot stances to make this a tame 5.8 climb.


Just left of "Slippin into Darkness" right below the shared belay ledge.


No bolts, but good small/med pro placements. Double rap anchors on ledge.

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By Joseph Brown
From: Mt. Olive, NJ
Oct 23, 2009

This route is shown in "Selected Climbs", but unfortunately it's only annotated on the topo map. If anyone knows the FA history, please comment so that I can properly document the route.
By saxfiend
From: Decatur, GA
Oct 27, 2009

The old Kelley Guide lists "Tom Howard et al" for the FA on this one.
By Joseph Brown
From: Mt. Olive, NJ
Oct 31, 2009

Thanks for the update!
By Coz Teplitz
From: Watertown, MA
Nov 11, 2010

As I recall, this variation was FA'd solo by Tom Howard. I always found it slopey and awkward, and apparently so did Mr. Howard, who called it "KFN" for "Kinda F-ing (G)narly". Apparently, Mr. Howard climbed this in the days before spellcheck.

NOTE - this is the story I heard in the mid-2000s from old-school OB folks. Accuracy is, of course, questionable.
By Tom Gallo
Mar 6, 2011

Great 100 ft. top rope. I would rate it 5.8 X
By Jonathan Dull
From: Boone, NC
Jul 1, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X

Really fun technical face climbing with interesting moves the entire way up. Set up a top rope by climbing Helmet Buttress or Slippin. I wouldn't suggest leading this one as the pro is very sparse until the last 20 feet of the climb I found a placement for a pretty solid c4. I did climb up the right side of the buttress so the pro may be better climbing up the left side.

  • Description notes that the route takes good small to medium cams. I would note that they are okay and very sparse at best. Wouldn't recommend onsighting this even if it's well below your usual grade. Thats just me however.
By Tom Howard
Mar 9, 2017

We climbed the face of the buttress, Jim Micky and I, and found a OB helmet on the ledge on top of the buttress. At that time the right side of the buttress was full of grass and vegetation as was the top of the buttress. We did not climb the right side. The "KFN" story is BS, though I am a poor speller.

Tom Howard
By Russ Keane
May 28, 2017

Yeah, whenever I rappel down this face, I see NO protection for a lead climb,

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