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Entering the crux section.
This felt hard for the 5.9 grade given in the Haas and Schneider guide. The crux is the hand and fist crack. Some holds to the left on Chicken Dance
help in the crux region. It is funny to use holds on a 5.12 to ease passage on a 5.9, but it seems like it would be much harder to jam the deep crack directly. Once in the chimney above the crack, move left to the anchor.
Standard rack to a #4 Camalot. Double #3s for the squeamish. Use the Chicken Dance
anchor to the left to get down.
This is the crack immediately to the right of Chicken Dance
. The crack starts in a left-facing dihedral. The business starts from a nice ledge about 20' up. Here a hand and fist crack is set deep into the corner. It widens to a chimney above. Descend from the hooks on Chicken Dance
By Dave Carey
From: Morrison, CO
Dec 10, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I highly suggest climbing the twenty foot thin hands crack as the approach to the wider section, and then try not to use the face holds to add a little thrutch :)