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Eight-Mile Buttress, Middle
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Hello Kitty T 
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Hello Kitty 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 350', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 253
Submitted By: littleman on May 14, 2014

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1st pitch looking up. The 2nd pitch is obvious as...

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Climb the central portion of middle 8 mile buttress towards the "finger" at the top.

Crux of the route is down low on the first pitch.

Last pitch is not to be missed. Maybe one of the most fun I have done in Leavenworth in the past 20 years.


Three bolted anchors with chains.

Route can be rappelled with a 70 meter. Not sure of the walk off if you top out. Route ends about 50 feet (easy ground) below the summit of middle 8 mile buttress.


5 or 6 bolts and a standard single 0.3 to 3 BD SLCDs protected it well.

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By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
May 28, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

I really liked the crack parts, but the bolted parts on the first pitch were pretty scary, but I guess I always feel that way on Leavenworth slabs. However I was fine with bolting on Mr. Tremendous and really liked that route.
Agree that the 3rd pitch is cool, several variations can be done up there.
And yes you can walk off, even in the dark without headlamps, but I don't recommend it. If you don't leave anything at the base of 8mile it is better to trend east and pick up the Memorial Buttress trail which is better.
By Jeromy Markee
From: Wenatchee, WA
Jul 28, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

TLDR: the guide book is wrong, bring 8 or 9 draws (ish?) for p3. YES, you can rap it with a 60M rope, just barely :). good climbing all the way up. I was underprepared, my fault completely.

very fun route! wish we could have done the last pitch. having the most recent leavenworth guidebook (not sure of the author)it said there are 4 bolts on the route, so we brought only six draws, 2 extra for nut/misc uses. this is not true however. managed the first pitch, barely squeezing by as far as draws go. used them all having one nut placement on the very thin crack above the small roof. 2nd pitch is practically scrambling, no bolts. starting off from the p2 anchors i clipped the first bolt and was in view of the rest of p3, which to my dismay was entirely bolted until the last crack section. this was a huge bummer becasue p3 really does look sweet! with how dirty the slab is right now (7/26/16) i was not willing to skip any bolts, and probably wouldnt have anyways, had it been clean. we ended up traversing to top out via p3 of stump route. at the top we vaguely searched around and saw no walk off or even slings around trees. being out of water by this time in 90 degrees we were pretty set on just getting to the car at this point so said forget it, lets just rap the route. we did a short rap off of a tree at the top onto the p3 anchors of hello kitty, maybe 25 ft if that. then proceeded to rap the route. we had a 60m rope and made it happen. the only time it was a bit sketchy was rapping p2 to p1 anchors. i came up short, but was within reaching distance of the anchors and just clipped into them with my PAS. rapping p1 gives you plenty of rope to make it to the ground. good day all around despite the p3 let down. looking back at it, you could probably throw a cam in under the flake above the last bolt before entering the crack to skip 1 bolt.

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