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BETA PHOTO: Looking up Pitch 1 from the base. The route goes u...
|Use the established trails|
Park your car off of the main canyon road.
Starts in right-facing corner 50 feet right of Till Hell Freezes Over
. Independent of its neighbor, Hell Raiser
is more of an approach pitch to Til Hell Freezes Over
. It climbs two pitches with its crux pitch coming in at .10b. Climb Hell Raiser
as it's intended two pitches or use it as a variation to join the middle of Til Hell Freezes Over's
second pitch. P1
is protected by three or four bolts with mixed small placements in the corner crack on the left. P1 ends at a two bolt anchor on a nice ledge, The rest of the belay stations on this route are hanging. (5.8) P2
follows eight bolts up a blunt arete. Fantastic climbing! (5.10b)
Stop here or continue via one bolt to join Til Hell Freezes Over's
2nd pitch. P3
traverses left past a bolt and then joins Till Hell Freezes Over
. This intersection starts the 5.11a climbing. The route is a variation two and a half pitch start to Till Hell Freezes Over
(5.11a/b). -The grade 5.10b applies only to the first part of the route. P4
is a slab protected entirely by bolts, 125 feet (5.10b). P5
is a choss pile protected by bolts and small pro up to .75" cams. Some route finding necessary. The final anchors are above the ledge land-marked by a pine tree. (5.9)
Helmets are a must. Jackets recommended if the temps are below 60 Deg. F. A 60m rope is insufficient for the first rappel. A walk off is optional and recommended if there other climbers in the sector.
There is a fixed pin at eye level at the start. 50 feet to the right of Till Hell Freezes Over. P1 is the black slab with the obvious dihedral on the left.
The first pitch consists of three or four bolts mixed with small placements in the corner crack on the left. TCU's or C3's useful. Bring lots of draws or extendables. The last pitch has several bolts and takes intermediate placements up to .75" cams.
The lower sections of the 3rd pitch... great expos...
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Jul 5, 2012
The first four pitches can be rapped with a 60m but make sure its a full 60! Did not see a pin at the start but there is a glue-in below the first bolt. Excellent route!
By Spencer Weiler
From: Salt Lake city
Jul 10, 2013
Pitch 1-nothing special, just decent 5.8 dihedral climbing requiring a few trad pieces and 3-4 bolts. huge gravel ledge for belay.
2-best pitch of the climb, short bulge crux then fun big hold arete climbing. all bolts
3-traverse hard left, then back right with crux again over bulge with small sidepulls to a big pocket, then follow a small crack to anchors. bad feet. all bolts, short pitch
4-traverse left again, then up slabbier rock for a long ways. all bolts. weird hardware anchor. longest pitch.
didn't do last pitch, but can confirm 70m is good for rapping first 4 pitches. a fun route worth doing once.
Sep 8, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
This should probably be re-categorized as the 2-pitch approach to Till Hell Freezes Over, to make the grade more obvious. It seems like the more obvious of the lines, also, especially with the way the raps are rigged. Crux (p3/11a) contains some excellent climbing. -noted