REI Community
Peeler Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ace-Drizzle Memorial Route, The T 
All The Way Over Here By Ourselves, Bitches! T 
Birthday Route T 
Black Mamba T 
Black Peeler T 
Ezra The Catamite T 
Golden Eye T,S 
Hell Broke Luce T 
Missing Vicki & Kirsten T 
Nazi Love Slaves T 
Orangutan Afternoon T 
Peeler Direct 
Serpent, The T 
Skin Man T 
Stag Party T 
Tin Man T 
Unsorted Routes:

Hell Broke Luce 


Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 250', Grade III
Original: A2+ [details]
FA: TDA & Durf
New Route: Yes
Season: any
Page Views: 1,111
Submitted By: Stevie Nacho on Sep 3, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
the broken pin that sent for me for a digger.

  • On private land. MORE INFO >>>
  • Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    PITCH ONE: After climbing the arching first pitch and a half of the Black Peeler Route, this climb exits the arch out a steep t.c.u crack. After a few small cams, clip a bolt and climb through the crux which is a delicate thin beak crack. After a knifeblade and some beaks (A2+) a bolt ladder takes you to a huge sloping ledge with a two bolt anchor.
    PITCH TWO: Climb the left or right of twin splitters to a thin crack that traverses right (A1+) When the thin crack pinches off climb past two bolts to a reachy thin placement that leads into a short glorious thin splitter. The splitter leads to another sloping ledge. The anchor is right (east) of the splitter about twenty feet. Protect the seconding climber and walk up and right to the anchor. This anchor was put here to facilitate a rappel to the anchor on the Peeler Direct.


    Between the Unknown A3 route and the second pitch of the Serpent. Rappel with one 60 meter rope to the chain anchor on the Peeler Direct route. One more rap to the ground is needed from there.


    Cams to #3 camalot (3.5 camalot useful but not mandatory), #0-#3 metolius tcu's, thin knifeblades, #1, #2 angles, lost arrows (short/thin), four birdbeaks. Lots of runners to alleviate rope drag when exiting the Black Peeler route.

    Photos of Hell Broke Luce Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up after a piton broke and sent me for a 2...
    Looking up after a piton broke and sent me for a 2...
    Rock Climbing Photo: tasty splitter on the last pitch
    tasty splitter on the last pitch
    Rock Climbing Photo: pitons are fun
    pitons are fun
    Rock Climbing Photo: The route
    The route

    Comments on Hell Broke Luce Add Comment
    Show which comments
    - none yet -

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About