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Hell Bent for Glory 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
Page Views: 424
Submitted By: Jon Nelson on May 10, 2013

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Brian Ebert

2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch MORE INFO >>>


Ascends a spectacular, shallow left-facing dihedral on the right side of the wall, finishes by face climbing on a dike.

P1: 5.6. Follow right-trending crack.

P2: 5.10 or 5.11: Currently being cleaned and worked out. The FA team could ascend a log to get past a thin section. Log is now gone, and there are two possible work-arounds. When the construction is done, the straight-on approach will involve a short wide dihedral crack where one will be doing chimney type climbing to a big ledge, and thereafter is face with some powerful face climbing. See the topo. One might even break this up into two shorter pitches.

P3: 10d. Long, continuous left-facing dihedral.

P4: 10b/c. Right traverse to a dike.

P5: 10a. Bolted face that follows a dike, trending left.


Full range, with doubles in the 2.5 - 4" sizes.

Photos of Hell Bent for Glory Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Edited topo of HBFG
BETA PHOTO: Edited topo of HBFG
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian Ebert getting the rope up a on cold rainy da...
Brian Ebert getting the rope up a on cold rainy da...
Rock Climbing Photo: Steep hand jamming.
Steep hand jamming.
Rock Climbing Photo: Soon it will be clean for all to enjoy.
Soon it will be clean for all to enjoy.
Rock Climbing Photo: Hell Bent For Glory, P3, the long dihedral 10d.
Hell Bent For Glory, P3, the long dihedral 10d.

Comments on Hell Bent for Glory Add Comment
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By Jtetzlaff
Sep 16, 2013

FA, Fred Grafton , Jim Yoder
By derekpearson
Jul 25, 2016

I added a topo to help with some route info. Since you posted this Jon a little bit has changed with this route. The original Clint Cummins guide info was a little off as well. The point of aid was at a tree on the second pitch(now gone) and possibly on the traverse pitch since that was how I had to do it when I lead the first time. The crack was filled with dirt and moss. It is now a sweet pitch. After cleaning the corner , traverse and last pitch I solo tope roped it and it was amazing! The corner is awesome this was climbable when Brian and I got to it a few years ago. The best way to get to the upper part of HBFG right now is by climbing Dike Fight 11d****.

Single rack of cams from 000 to 4BD, double the .75 to 3.
Runners are helpful but rack of 12 draws should be enough.
By Jon Nelson
From: Bellingham, WA
Jul 25, 2016

Thanks Derek.

How hard are P4 (traverse) and P5?

Also, about the pro, roughly, what is the max size in inches of the 3 and 4 BD, and the min size of the 0.75?
By derekpearson
Jul 25, 2016

The traverse pitch is 10b/c and the last pitch is easier 10a

The .75 min is around 1" , pretty close and the 3 is 2" to 3.46" the 4 is 2.6 to 4.5

Small cam or nut
.75 two in a row
4 at the end of the arch

Thats what the sequance of gear that remember. Thats sewing it up .
The small cams are for the traverse pitch. I didnt use anything bigger then a .75 .
I remember a 00 was nice to have.

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