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Centerfold T,S 
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Dog Fight AKA Dike Fight S 
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Hell Bent for Glory T 
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Nothing but Net S 
R. O. U. S.  S 

Hell Bent for Glory 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 225
Submitted By: Jon Nelson on May 10, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Edited topo of HBFG

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Ascends a spectacular, shallow left-facing dihedral on the right side of the wall, finishes by face climbing on a dike.

P1: 5.6. Follow right-trending crack.

P2: 5.10 or 5.11: Currently being cleaned and worked out. The FA team could ascend a log to get past a thin section. Log is now gone, and there are two possible work-arounds. When the construction is done, the straight-on approach will involve a short wide dihedral crack where one will be doing chimney type climbing to a big ledge, and thereafter is face with some powerful face climbing. See the topo. One might even break this up into two shorter pitches.

P3: 10d. Long, continuous left-facing dihedral.

P4: 10b/c. Right traverse to a dike.

P5: 10a. Bolted face that follows a dike, trending left.

Protection 

Full range, with doubles in the 2.5 - 4" sizes.


Photos of Hell Bent for Glory Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian Ebert
Brian Ebert
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian Ebert getting the rope up a on cold rainy da...
Brian Ebert getting the rope up a on cold rainy da...
Rock Climbing Photo: Steep hand jamming.
Steep hand jamming.
Rock Climbing Photo: Soon it will be clean for all to enjoy.
Soon it will be clean for all to enjoy.
Rock Climbing Photo: Hell Bent For Glory, P3, the long dihedral 10d.
Hell Bent For Glory, P3, the long dihedral 10d.

Comments on Hell Bent for Glory Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jtetzlaff
Sep 16, 2013

FA, Fred Grafton , Jim Yoder
By derekpearson
Jul 25, 2016

I added a topo to help with some route info. Since you posted this Jon a little bit has changed with this route. The original Clint Cummins guide info was a little off as well. The point of aid was at a tree on the second pitch(now gone) and possibly on the traverse pitch since that was how I had to do it when I lead the first time. The crack was filled with dirt and moss. It is now a sweet pitch. After cleaning the corner , traverse and last pitch I solo tope roped it and it was amazing! The corner is awesome this was climbable when Brian and I got to it a few years ago. The best way to get to the upper part of HBFG right now is by climbing Dike Fight 11d****.

Single rack of cams from 000 to 4BD, double the .75 to 3.
Runners are helpful but rack of 12 draws should be enough.
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
From: Bellingham, WA
Jul 25, 2016

Thanks Derek.

How hard are P4 (traverse) and P5?

Also, about the pro, roughly, what is the max size in inches of the 3 and 4 BD, and the min size of the 0.75?
By derekpearson
Jul 25, 2016

The traverse pitch is 10b/c and the last pitch is easier 10a

The .75 min is around 1" , pretty close and the 3 is 2" to 3.46" the 4 is 2.6 to 4.5

Small cam or nut
3
.75 two in a row
2
4 at the end of the arch
2
1
3

Thats what the sequance of gear that remember. Thats sewing it up .
The small cams are for the traverse pitch. I didnt use anything bigger then a .75 .
I remember a 00 was nice to have.