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The Diamond
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Centerfold T,S 
Dark Crystal, The T 
Dog Fight AKA Dike Fight S 
Dreamweaver S 
Hell Bent for Glory T 
Hell Bent For Leather  S 
Nothing but Net S 
R. O. U. S.  S 
Sabbra Cadabra T 

Hell Bent for Glory 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: P1,3-5 FA Fred Grafton, Jim Yoder P2,6-7 FA Derek Pearson, Michal Rynkiwicz, Chandler Davis, Ryan Hoover
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,328
Submitted By: Ryan Hoover on May 10, 2013

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P3 the sustained corner Photo Ryan Hoover

2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch MORE INFO >>>

Description 

An old route that has recently been retro fitted and cleaned. 1 aid pitch (an old dead tree that was climbed) turned free and 2 new pitches make for a sustained 5.10/5.10+ route that goes up clean featured stone to the top of the Diamond.

P1: 5.6 Follow the left-trending crack.

P2: 5.10d Follow the corner to another ledge. Climb directly above the ledge pulling bouldery moves on bolts. There is an anchor below Hell Bent Ledge. You can belay here (sharpish edge above) and move the anchor to the base of the Hell Bent corner, or continue all the way up to Hell Bent Ledge.

One could also climb the second pitch of Sabbra Cadabra to get to the Ledge (5.10).

P3: 5.10 Long, continuous left-facing dihedral. A stunner! Double rack from .75 to 3". A single .5 and #3 as well. The only gear you need after this pitch is a single rack to 2".

P4: 5.10 Straight up off the belay to two bolts. Right traverse to a dike.

P5: 5.10- Follow the beautiful leftward traversing dike.

P6: 5.10 Climb left out of the glory hole. Slightly cryptic climbing to start leads up good holds on steep white granite.

P7: 5.10 Climb easy terrain to a bolt. Follow the short corner to fun blocky overhung terrain to an out of this world exposed roof finish that sits over the whole wall! Very useful to extend the bolts to prevent rope drag.

Protection 

Single Rack to 4". Doubles from .75 - 2". 12 draws, with about half being alpine draws. We didn't place any nuts. Rappel the route with a 70 meter rope.

Location 

Follow the tracks from town to the Lookout Point trail. Follow it all the way to the Rattletale wall rock gully. Continue up the gully up and left toward the Duck Wall. Skirt left along the base of the Duck Wall to the Diamond Gully. In winter this can be flowing water, but can still be climbed using the fixed lines (Fresh from Winter 2017). Continue up the gully until you hit a split at the base of the diamond. Head right at the junction and follow the trail up to an obvious splitter 40 feet past Centerfold.


Photos of Hell Bent for Glory Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Chandler Davis on p4
 Photo Ryan Hoover
Chandler Davis on p4 Photo Ryan Hoover
Rock Climbing Photo: P3
P3
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian Ebert on P4.
Brian Ebert on P4.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Rynkiewicz p6 
 Photo Ryan Hoover 
 FFA 7-1-1...
Mike Rynkiewicz p6 Photo Ryan Hoover FFA 7-1-1...
Rock Climbing Photo: P3
P3
Rock Climbing Photo: P7
P7
Rock Climbing Photo: Ryan Hoover on p7 
 Photo Chandler Davis
 FFA 7-1-...
Ryan Hoover on p7 Photo Chandler Davis FFA 7-1-...
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting to Hell Bent Ledge
BETA PHOTO: Getting to Hell Bent Ledge
Rock Climbing Photo: working hard toward the end of P 3
working hard toward the end of P 3
Rock Climbing Photo: Green: Centerfold  Red: Sabbra Cadabra  White: Hel...
BETA PHOTO: Green: Centerfold Red: Sabbra Cadabra White: Hel...
Rock Climbing Photo: Soon it will be clean for all to enjoy.
Soon it will be clean for all to enjoy.
Rock Climbing Photo: Edited topo of HBFG
BETA PHOTO: Edited topo of HBFG
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian Ebert getting the rope up a on cold rainy da...
Brian Ebert getting the rope up a on cold rainy da...
Rock Climbing Photo: Steep hand jamming.
Steep hand jamming.
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian is stoked for something positive to hold ont...
Brian is stoked for something positive to hold ont...
Rock Climbing Photo: The face sequence on P4 before the traverse is fun...
The face sequence on P4 before the traverse is fun...
Rock Climbing Photo: Hell Bent For Glory, P3, the long dihedral 10d.
Hell Bent For Glory, P3, the long dihedral 10d.

Comments on Hell Bent for Glory Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 12, 2017
By Jtetzlaff
Sep 16, 2013

FA, Fred Grafton , Jim Yoder
By derekpearson Pearson
Jul 25, 2016

I added a topo to help with some route info. Since you posted this Jon a little bit has changed with this route. The original Clint Cummins guide info was a little off as well. The point of aid was at a tree on the second pitch(now gone) and possibly on the traverse pitch since that was how I had to do it when I lead the first time. The crack was filled with dirt and moss. It is now a sweet pitch. After cleaning the corner , traverse and last pitch I solo tope roped it and it was amazing! The corner is awesome this was climbable when Brian and I got to it a few years ago. The best way to get to the upper part of HBFG right now is by climbing Dike Fight 11d****.

Single rack of cams from 000 to 4BD, double the .75 to 3.
Runners are helpful but rack of 12 draws should be enough.
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
From: Bellingham, WA
Jul 25, 2016

Thanks Derek.

How hard are P4 (traverse) and P5?

Also, about the pro, roughly, what is the max size in inches of the 3 and 4 BD, and the min size of the 0.75?
By derekpearson Pearson
Jul 25, 2016

The traverse pitch is 10b/c and the last pitch is easier 10a

The .75 min is around 1" , pretty close and the 3 is 2" to 3.46" the 4 is 2.6 to 4.5

Small cam or nut
3
.75 two in a row
2
4 at the end of the arch
2
1
3

Thats what the sequance of gear that remember. Thats sewing it up .
The small cams are for the traverse pitch. I didnt use anything bigger then a .75 .
I remember a 00 was nice to have.
By derekpearson Pearson
Jul 4, 2017

P1 follows the easy crack
P2 can be sabbra caddabra or climb the corner to the ledge then follow the bolts at 11- move belay to the base of the corner
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
From: Bellingham, WA
Jul 4, 2017

The route has vastly changed and improved since I first posted it.

I'd happily transfer "ownership" of this page to someone on the "new FA" team so you can easily update it. Derek? Michal? Ryan?
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
From: Bellingham, WA
Jul 5, 2017

Thanks Ryan.


Your photos for this route are fantastic. I'm psyched to try it.

---

Correction: It is all yours. Of course, I don't mind if you delete any or all that I wrote for the route description etc.
By Josh Baxley
From: Seattle, WA
Jul 12, 2017
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

This route is rad! Great work cleaning that thing up. Each pitch gets better the higher you go. Splitter dihedral to roof on p3 was great, p7 was crazy fun too. Gear beta is accurate, smallest pro was a couple of blue mastercams or red C3s for the traverse pitch. We were happy with one #4 on p3.

P2 - 5.11a/b. We took the bolt line directly above and right of the old tree corner. I felt like this was the crux of the route, but maybe stay far right of the bolt line?
P3 - 5.10b/c. Awesome, but the last stretch to the anchor after the roof wasn't the hand jamming party I was expecting.
P4 - 5.10b/c. Reachy mantle move off the anchor, then strenuous traverse on slopers with occasional finger locks
P5 - 5.9+ or 10a. Fun face climbing on good holds.
P6 - 5.10c/d. Getting above the first bolt was tough for me, then it's fun 5.10-
P7 - mid 5.10. So good. Easy to get intimated by the big roofs, but once you commit it's a trip to jug town
By derekpearson Pearson
Jul 13, 2017

Josh! Thanks for your description of the route. So cool.
By Ryan Hoover
Jul 14, 2017
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Josh, you went the right way on p2, straight up at the bolt line. Just tricky!
By wayne wallace
From: Seattle
Jul 16, 2017

Thanks for the hard labor on this classic climb!! Did a quickie report : waynewallace.wordpress.com/201...
By Ben Gilkison
Aug 11, 2017

Amazing to see such prolific change at the Diamond---all for the best. Despite 93 degree heat, did this route yesterday and the challenge was mostly heat related suffering. Of personal note, p2 felt 11- and the bolt protecting the initial moves off of ledge (the beginning of the harder climbing) are not protected for someone my stature. I can see why the bolt is there if you happen to be average height and can reach the first obvious flake/jug; but climbing the thin moves to the right with current bolt placement problematic, but whatever. Last 2 pitches were my favorite. So good. Thank you guys for all the hard work! The other routes look amazing! Also, thanks to whomever is cleaning up Centerfold and chopped that tree out of p4. Kudos!
By Ryan Hoover
Aug 12, 2017
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Stoked you enjoyed the route, we've spoke about moving that bolt down a foot. Our buddies Devin and Josh are getting Centerfold cleaned up and we will also be replacing some bolts. I'm not sure on a time frame to finish, but p1-3 are pretty dirty at the moment due to the rest of the cleaning in the area. It will all be done before too long though!
By andrew bogaard
Sep 12, 2017

Great route. My partner and I went up yesterday and debated long and hard about trundling a very large and very loose block below the final roof, directly above pitch 6 anchors. We opted not to, since it was midday and didnt have anyone on the ground to spot. Not usually one to sound the alarm over rocks, but this one's barely floating on moss and dirt, and it's huge.
By Ryan Hoover
Sep 12, 2017
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

If it rains for real this weekend we plan to take care of it. If not it's really only in the way on rapel, so just don't grab it when rapping down the roof.

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