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Hell Area

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El Diablo Wall 
Hell Cave 
Hell Wall 

Hell Area Rock Climbing 

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Location: 40.44647, -111.69397 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Neal Carroll on Aug 12, 2015
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Merto on Malvado. 6D Ziess 50mm 1.4

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>


A one time sport climbing mecca, this area of American Fork has historical value as the beginning of limestone sport climbing in America. Thank you Boone Speed, Tim Wagner, Jeff Pedersen, Mike Call, Bill Boyle, Mike Beck...etc.

This is still the place to get honed in the SLC area. The routes are bouldery and steep and require good technical skills as well as crazy finger strength.

Classics include Hell, Malvado, El Diablo and Body Count.

Getting There 

Drive up American Fork Canyon until you pass the Timpanogos Cave, drive another .65 miles passing the Hideaway parking on the left and start to look for a large pullout on the right. Park here and walk back down canyon and cross the road. At or around 150 feet, you will see a trail leading uphill passing a chossy dark wall. This trail will head right to the El Diablo Wall. From El Diablo, follow a trail south which wraps clockwise around the scree cone to reach the cave. This should be a good guide to get your started. See Individual crags here for other directions.

Climbing Season

Weather station 1.2 miles from here

41 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',20],['2 Stars',14],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Hell Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Hell Area:
Purgatory   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 43'   El Diablo Wall
Reaching for Razors   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   Hell Wall
The Gateway   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   El Diablo Wall
The Blight   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   Hell Wall
Top Shelf   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Hell Wall
Church of Skatin   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Hell Wall
El Diablo   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch, 40'   El Diablo Wall
Reanimator   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Hell Wall
Melting   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Hell Cave
Hell   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Hell Wall
Malvado   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, Chipped, 1 pitch, 40'   El Diablo Wall
Burning   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Hell Cave
Inferno   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 45'   El Diablo Wall
Wizards   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Hell Cave
White Noise   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 40'   El Diablo Wall
High Water   5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   Hell Wall
Body Count   5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a     Sport   El Diablo Wall
Dead Souls   5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   El Diablo Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Hell Area

Featured Route For Hell Area
Rock Climbing Photo: Boone Speed on Fryeing (5.13c), American Fork Cany...

Fryeing 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a  Utah : Wasatch Range : ... : Hell Cave
This route begins on Burning and once the 6th bolt is clipped you stay low and go into the Wizards crux and finish by pulling the Bats out of Hell roof....[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

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