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YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Mike Perkins, Clay Watson
New Route: Yes
Season: mostly summer and fall
Page Views: 4,149
Submitted By: tenesmus on Oct 25, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Sticking the dyno, photo by

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


The Uncertainty Principle. This is the original line I aided on this cliff and what drew us up there to do White Lines. Follow the steep crack system of White Lines to the corner at the third bolt. Then keep trending right 4 more bolts up through a crux with a rose move, then a dyno, then top out at the apex of the roof.


5th class or climb one of the routes in the vicinity of SPF 50, then veer right in the notch just above the first pitch, heading for the biggest roof you see. This is also directly above Gateway Drugs, which might be a decent warmup to the steepness.
The first 30 feet are shared with White Lines. To be clear, there is a bolt right at the bottom of the line, then gear, then a bolt on the face, then a little alcove/corner with a bolt. This is where W.L. splits up and left through the crack in the roof. Heisenburg stays on the steeper features for four bolts and finishes on the apex of the steepest wall.


.4 to #2 camalot, draws.

The best way to rap down from the top of both Heisenberg and White Lines is to go off the top of the last two bolts on either climb (ie off the two fixed draws of Heisenberg). 1) Have the last person on the route clean it up to the bolts. 2) Lower that person down to the anchor of Gateway Drugs and have them anchor themselves in. 3) Clean the stuff at the base of WL/Heis. 4) Use the climber at Gateway for ballast as you rap a single down to the same anchor. 5) One 35m rap to the ground.

Photos of Heisenberg Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The line.
The line.
Rock Climbing Photo: And then there is this.
And then there is this.
Rock Climbing Photo: Heisenberg
Rock Climbing Photo: Skinny Pete and Badger warming up.
Skinny Pete and Badger warming up.

Comments on Heisenberg Add Comment
Show which comments
By zoso
Oct 26, 2013

Way to nail it!
By bsmoot
Oct 26, 2013

Yes! On an exploratory probe, this is where Clay, on one of his first aid climbing lead leads ever, tackled the steepest part of this big airy roof. Just as he was pulling over the top, he desperately tried to place anything that would hold his weight. He found only small, shallow groove type cracks. A big plunge into space was taken here as some of his manky placements ripped.

Clay, this wouldn't have happened if you would have brought...some Bashies!
By tenesmus
Oct 30, 2013

Brian - the cool part is that when one of the pins ripped out it took a nice block with it. The dyno move is made from the unique lip/edge created by the removed block. In that vein, we had to put a couple of the bolts higher than optimal but where the best rock was. We're putting a couple of steel perma-draws on those bolts. Even I'm not that tall.
By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
Oct 30, 2013

You guys did it! Nice work!!
By Colby Wayment
From: Ogden, UT
Nov 3, 2013

Solid work, Clay! Sounds awesome.
By David Bell
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Oct 29, 2014
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Great route! Make the effort to break out of your usual routine and come up to this one. I can't think of another route in the canyon with a rose move or one with as big of a dyno.
By ferrells
Jan 9, 2015

Awesome story
By Peter V.
Jun 13, 2015

Awesome route! Thanks for all the work that was put into this line to establish. But I did not find a rose move or a dyno?
By tenesmus
Aug 24, 2015

If you're a mid .12 climber looking for a .13a to project, this could be a great candidate. Great gear that takes a lot less as you learn the bottom. I eventually cut it down from 6 pieces to 3 and it made a huge difference.

Persevere definitely pays off and the climbing is fun enough to keep you motivated. Another motivational trick is to invest a ton of time and energy into equipping a route, have your partner send, get another friend to take some nice photos, bring a bunch of other friends and watch them send... It adds up to keep you on task. I doubt there will ever be a climb I know better. Stoked to finally send.
By TylerPhillips
Aug 24, 2015

Stoked for you Clay!

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