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Genetic Wall
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Acromegaly T 
Certified Non-GMO T 
Genetic Continuity S 
Genetic Drift S 
Heirloom T 
Spicy Heirloom T 
Tyrannosaurus Runt T 

Heirloom 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Derek Field, Garth Schultz (March 2017)
New Route: Yes
Season: Southwest-facing (mid-day to afternoon sun)
Page Views: 201
Submitted By: Derek Field on Mar 6, 2017

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Heirloom topo

Description 

Heirloom is a splitter handcrack of exceptional quality for Sedona. The bottom half is right out of the Creek with solid jamming and heroic roof pulls. The top half throws a bit of everything at you, with several intriguing cruxes through a variety of sizes.

Start at the base of the obvious clean-cut corner. Use a dubious flake to establish yourself in the handcrack. Jam your way up and launch over a pair of cubic roofs. Continue up the crack as it flares and passes through a variety of sizes. When it fizzles out into nothing, make an airy step-across right to a splitter fist/OW crack. Pull through a final bulge on positive edges and arrive at the two-bolt chain anchor.

Location 

The Genetic Wall is divided by gullies into three parts. On the middle formation, Heirloom is the very obvious splitter handcrack in a clean right-facing corner.

Protection 

Doubles .4 to 4
2-3x 2 and 3
(new BD camalot sizes)


Photos of Heirloom Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jason Jackson cleaning up the splitter heirloom
Jason Jackson cleaning up the splitter heirloom
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading the lower half of the first pitch, where t...
Leading the lower half of the first pitch, where t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Garth on the upper half of the route.
Garth on the upper half of the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Garth making the step-across move.
Garth making the step-across move.
Rock Climbing Photo: Garth getting into the final fist crack to finish ...
Garth getting into the final fist crack to finish ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Bottom half of Heirloom showcased in vertical pano
Bottom half of Heirloom showcased in vertical pano

Comments on Heirloom Add Comment
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By Dave Spies
From: Sedona, AZ
May 20, 2017

Super fun. Felt well protected with double .4-3 and a single 4. 85' rap. No need to do the step across... just climb straight up to the fist/ hand crack on a few face features.

Lots of shade for a quick outing on summer mornings, or lots of sun for a nice winter afternoon.

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