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Get the Balance Right S 
Heirloom S 


YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
FA: Allan Gardner, March 1988
Page Views: 1,103
Submitted By: Tristan B on Oct 13, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Almost to the top.

Grotto and Lookout closed MORE INFO >>>


The crux is the start. Then you spiral up the spire. Watch for loose rock and sketchy holds.


The route is on the North West side.


Lots of 1/4 bolts and a few 3/8's. This used to be an old aid route. Bring lots of draws and maybe some slings or long draws to reduce rope drag.

Photos of Heirloom Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Gargoyle Pose at the top
Gargoyle Pose at the top

Comments on Heirloom Add Comment
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By Alexander
From: Los Angeles
Feb 15, 2010

This thing is falling apart, lots of loose rock. Belayer MUST have a lid on, chossy climb for sure.
By Ancent
From: Reno, NV
Oct 18, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

Terrifying. None of the bolts would hold a fall and the route is literally falling apart. It's cool to stand on top of balanced rock though! The anchors at the top are drilled into two large clasts in a crumbling breccia-- a scary rappel. Remember, huecos often start out as large clasts in a conglomerate; clearly they didn't last long. Use caution and judgement when making the rap.
By Tim Maas
From: Isla Vista, California
Mar 20, 2016

Bolts are pretty bad. Stick clipped the third bolt because it looked a little better than the first two. It wasn't. Rappel anchors bolts are completely rusted. Leave bail gear because when I rappeled off I got my rope stuck and had to use the end that was sticking out to lead back up again. Feels amazing standing on top and the sketchy bolts add to the experience. Belayer needs a helmet as route is chossy.

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