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Gus Fruh aka Fern Bar Area
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Heir Apparent 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,455
Submitted By: Matt Richardson on Jun 25, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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BETA PHOTO: Crux to the chains

Description 

An outstanding route for the area that involves some thin face climbing. Start right of Wyoming Women (a naturally protected crack climb which cleaves the Gus Fruh wall) under a small roof with a gap in it from the left side. Layback onto an incut directly beneath the left portion of the roof and clip the first bolt. This next move makes this route outstanding! Laying off that incut, highstep with the left onto the outer portion of the roof and rock up into a stance just above the roof. Follow the climb straight up through a wonderfully thin face.

This route was originally a top rope using the anchors from Wyoming Women.

Location 

This route can be located as one travels right down toward the Kingdom of Ging. The route is located immediately right of a large crack (Wyoming Women, 5.8) and starts under a small roof.

Protection 

3 to 4 bolts plus anchors.


Photos of Heir Apparent Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The start (crux is just below the first bolt at th...
BETA PHOTO: The start (crux is just below the first bolt at th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jim making the move over the first roof.  The pock...
Jim making the move over the first roof. The pock...

Comments on Heir Apparent Add Comment
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By Russell Bangert
Jul 12, 2011

The crux over the bulge is some hard 5.9, but it's all easy sailing past that.
By Chance Copeland
Sep 29, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A one-move wonder to be sure, but it is a fun move.
By DavidC
Oct 5, 2012

To help find this one, there is a 2.0 mile green trail marker right in front of the big crack. This starts about 3 feet to the right of that
By Emily Ammon
May 1, 2017
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Agreed on the crux! But once I made the move, came back a few weeks later and crushed it, felt so natural. It's all about building that neuromuscular connection for a slightly new or unusual movement.

Also felt that going left of the bolt line on the way up felt kind of challenging! Some go right for an easier ascent on the ledge.

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