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Knome Dome aka Water Dome
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L to R R to L Alpha
Heels over Heads T 
Kiddo Climb S 
River Madness T,S 
Sleeping Beauty S 
Tourists and Fishermen S 
Water Babies S 
Waterslide S 

Heels over Heads 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Peter Williams & Peter Gallagher, 1979
Page Views: 1,170
Submitted By: Bill Schmausser on May 27, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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This is the third route from the left on the Water Dome. Climb the easy, bolted face to the obvious crack through the roof. Pull the roof with trad gear.


Draws, pro to 3"

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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 27, 2007

The subsequent FA party should remove the bolts and do their best to patch the holes.
By Stewart M. Green
May 28, 2007

I think Steve Cheyney put the 2 bolts in the lower slab below the roof back in the mid-eighties, so they are not exactly new....
By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
May 28, 2007

Not that it really matters but the book was still at the MC when I left the Springs in '87.
By Bill Schmausser
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 30, 2007

Actually fellas, River Madness is the 'direct start' via the hard slab below HoH. Having climbed HoH with both Becker and Cheney, they both generaly started just left of the hard slab and 5th classed 5.9 (no gear) up to the roof. Randy Zuckerman and I drilled the two lower bolts on the lead almost 20 years ago. They should probably be listed as separate routes or River Madness as an alternate start. Either way, I really don't care but I know how 'sensitive' you guys are ;)

Franky we'd all be better off if they removed the FA box on these routes, IMHO.

By Bill Schmausser
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 30, 2007


You are quite correct, I don't really care about the whole ownership thing, I find the politics of climbing to be largely pejorative and immaterial. However, I do recognize that such matters do concern you profoundly and while we would disagree as to their substance, I do respect your interest. Ergo, I have amended the routes to accurately reflect what you believe is your FA, listing the other climb as a variant.

How's that for sensitivity :)

By Chris Mack
Dec 1, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

This route is actually pretty cool. A bit of a 1 move wonder as the roof is certainly out of character with the rest of the route... and kind of desperate! Good route though!

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