Heels over Head
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Heels Over Head.
Climb a wide crack through a roof, right of the Wave
Basic, fat gear.
From: Denver, CO
Oct 5, 2015
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
This thing is really, really fun. Sure, it's short, has quite forgettable climbing to top out, some questionable flakes down low, and some gardening at the start, but the actual OW roof is killer fun. Pulling the lip has some wild moves if you're on the shorter side. For gear, a single #5 and #6 or 2 #6s protect the roof, but bring some small-medium stoppers for the finish. It's easy but worth protecting due to the potential for breaking holds. A few finger-hand sized pieces are useful to build a gear anchor at the top. The follower can rap from the anchors on top of wave goodbye.
As far as the difficulty/seriousness: Haas' book calls this 11c, no seriousness rating. The general realm of solid to hard 11 sounds fair. I couldn't figure out a good way to protect it that didn't have a very real possibility of going head first onto a slab if you blow a move/clip at some point between kicking over and pulling the lip. This risk can be minimized by long slings on all lower pieces and a competent belay. Maybe PG-13, maybe not, but I didn't want to find out. All that said, if you can do the moves, I wouldn't be too worried about it - just be aware that the possibility is there and plan your moves and gear placements accordingly.