Route Guide    Partners    Forum    Photos    What's New    Journal        
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
The Alligator Lounge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Altered State T 
Evil Genius T 
Feel the Void T 
Good and Plenty T 
Heels over Head T 
Lator Gator T 
Let's Do It Again, Daddy T 
Lounge Lizard T 
Optical Illusion T 
Slot, The T 
Spank Me T 
Wave Goodbye S 
Wild Thing S 

Heels over Head 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13 [details]
FA: Mclaughlin, Steve Cheyney
Page Views: 645
Submitted By: Kevin McLaughlin on Mar 25, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Heels Over Head.

Road & nearby private property MORE INFO >>>


Climb a wide crack through a roof, right of the Wave.


Basic, fat gear.

Comments on Heels over Head Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rkrum
From: Denver, CO
Oct 5, 2015
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

This thing is really, really fun. Sure, it's short, has quite forgettable climbing to top out, some questionable flakes down low, and some gardening at the start, but the actual OW roof is killer fun. Pulling the lip has some wild moves if you're on the shorter side. For gear, a single #5 and #6 or 2 #6s protect the roof, but bring some small-medium stoppers for the finish. It's easy but worth protecting due to the potential for breaking holds. A few finger-hand sized pieces are useful to build a gear anchor at the top. The follower can rap from the anchors on top of wave goodbye.

As far as the difficulty/seriousness: Haas' book calls this 11c, no seriousness rating. The general realm of solid to hard 11 sounds fair. I couldn't figure out a good way to protect it that didn't have a very real possibility of going head first onto a slab if you blow a move/clip at some point between kicking over and pulling the lip. This risk can be minimized by long slings on all lower pieces and a competent belay. Maybe PG-13, maybe not, but I didn't want to find out. All that said, if you can do the moves, I wouldn't be too worried about it - just be aware that the possibility is there and plan your moves and gear placements accordingly.