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Heckle and Jive 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Nate Young, Scott Duemler
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 70
Submitted By: bio on Oct 6, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: The overhanging start is definitely the most diffi...

Description 

Just right of Sweet singularity. Crux is first two bolts. Steep start, trick is sorting out multitude of holds for the best ones. Surprisingly good rock for the area. First half steep and sporty, second half fun 5.9+ trad on good rock.

Protection 

3 QD's then set of nuts and light rack of a few cams to choose from in the .3 to .75 range. bring 2 or 3 extendable runners just in case you like to wander.


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By Nate Young
From: Phoenix
Oct 7, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

The bolt line and trad pro stayed surprisingly in-line together. I didn't have to extend any of the draws to keep the rope drag down until the very end when I got off route. This is a two section route, with the first three bolts being the most difficult and the trad section being more fun and adventurous. Make sure to go left up the face after the second vertical crack toward the bolts. I continued up to the 3rd vertical crack system and ran into the bush up there, and it ended up being a choss fest.

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