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Heavy Metal Saturday 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Team Cuz 2016
New Route: Yes
Season: winter.
Page Views: 306
Submitted By: Zach Harrison on Jan 26, 2016

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Heavy Metal Sunday. On the send, P2 crux.

Description 

Heavy Metal Saturday is the Saturday following any Monday holiday. More often then Christmas and twice as loud. Closely followed by heavy metal Sunday.

P1 Same as Red Lung. 5.7b R. 100ft. Move belay right 70 feet on big ledge. Belay takes fingers gear.
P2 Crank up the volume and sand ape up past locks, jams and crimps. Down tune into delicate post rock slab. Headbang your way to the chains on encore jugs. 5.11 70 feet.
P3 Leave the green room and mantle the bogus block. Solo neat holds into world tour finger crack. Private jet bulge to center stage. Double encore arête past 3 bolts to upper VIP room. 5.10 80 feet

Location 

Start at the notch between Slingshot Rock and the Camels Head. Same first pitch as Red Lung. Starts off base camp ledge 70 feet right from 1st pitch anchor.

Protection 

1X BD#0C3-#1C4 w/ 2X .3-.5C4's. 9 draws and runners. Rap route. 70m works best for 1st pitch rap.


Photos of Heavy Metal Saturday Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: P3 Super solo world tour finger crack.
P3 Super solo world tour finger crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up from the approach. H.M.S. is the right ...
Looking up from the approach. H.M.S. is the right ...

Comments on Heavy Metal Saturday Add Comment
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By J. Snyder
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Feb 8, 2016

Total Blaster! P3 is hero climbing and will make you look heroic. Optional fingers piece available on P2 between bolts 1 and 2 will make it less spacey.

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