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Sugarloaf
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
California Reamin' T 
Flat Battery T,TR 
Heavy Charge T,TR 
Hotwire T 
Jump Start T,TR 
Lieback Crack T 
Little Spark T,TR 
Magnet T,TR 
Mechanic, The T 
Power Smart T,TR 
Stairway T,TR 
Thriller Off the Void T 

Heavy Charge 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 61
Submitted By: Mark van Eijk on Aug 20, 2015

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Description 

Starts in the "hole" as for Hot Wire but immediately busts right by way of a tough boulder problem to a thin crack. The climbing above is fun and technical, with excellent movement on great rock. Eventually meanders right to join up with Stairway.

Location 

On the north side of the sugarloaf, climber's right if hiking up from the parking lot. Look for the chalked-up basalt hueco. This route climbs up through the large, triangular alcove.

Protection 

Small nuts and cams. A tiny nut and green C3 protect the boulder problem. Nothing larger than a #0.5 camalot is needed. Gear is very good, but is often strenuous to place.


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