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Monsters from the Id
Routes Sorted
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Abominable Snowman S 
Boogieman , The S 
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Doctor No S 
Feeding Frenzy S 
Heaven S 
Heavenly Monsters S 
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Heaven 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Scott Stevenson, 1988
Page Views: 2,326
Submitted By: lee hansche on Feb 28, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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matt on heaven

Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Not a normal sport climb by any means....
The route follows a slightly inverted "V" groove through interesting stemming moves. Some folks even end up with there backs facing to the wall and pulling a corkscrew move.... When was the last time you did that on a sport route?

Heaven is a good warm up for the harder climbs at the crag or a very worth while route in its own right....

A few times I've been on it I've had to do battle with big spiders and big webs...so make your friend go first....

Location 

The route follows the "V" groove that splits the super-steep, right section of the cliff from the left section.... Stick clip and start on the left or jump for the good holds on the right....

Protection 

5 bolts to anchors.


Photos of Heaven Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: jared, focused
jared, focused
Rock Climbing Photo: Jared... reaching toward Heaven...
Jared... reaching toward Heaven...
Rock Climbing Photo: jakob working it out
jakob working it out
Rock Climbing Photo: jakob
jakob
Rock Climbing Photo: no body puts jakob in the corner
no body puts jakob in the corner
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike chimneying up heaven - not the difference in ...
Mike chimneying up heaven - not the difference in ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The technical upper part with the press of the fis...
The technical upper part with the press of the fis...
Rock Climbing Photo: It was odd to find some prehung draws on an 11, bu...
It was odd to find some prehung draws on an 11, bu...
Rock Climbing Photo: Get at it!
Get at it!

Comments on Heaven Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Jun 30, 2007

I was actually just there yesterday, and that is the reason I didn't get on it.....the HUMONGOUS spider webs at the top.....scaaaary!
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 2, 2007

I'll clean the webs off for you if you will climb it Mike....
By David Aguasca!
From: New York
May 15, 2008

Love this route...it would be interesting to see somebody else do the corkscrew, I did it differently.
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 15, 2008

I've done it 3 or 4 times and i think i've done the corkscrew twice and didn't the other time or 2... i think what ever flows is how it goes...
By Eric Leclerc
From: Montreal
Oct 25, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This is a miniature version of Flying Hawaiian. In the gigantic dihedral of Flying you feel small and you need to stretch a lot. In Heaven's dihedral, you feel like Gulliver in the Lilliputians land.....
By JayMorse
From: Hooksett, New Hampshire
Oct 2, 2016

Anyone who loves weird and unique climbs, put this one on your short list. Just an amazing climb that will challenge you start to finish - going for the onsight was the most fun I've had at Rumney in a long time.

Bring a cool head, because although the bolts spacing and locations are totally fine, the positions you have to put your body in to climb this route could set you up for some nasty falls.