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Heaven (Roadside Direct) 

Hueco: V5+ Font: 6C+ PG13

   
Type:  Boulder, 25'
Original:  Hueco: V5+ Font: 6C+ PG13 [details]
FA: Probably 1980s as a TR, Bouldered 2012 Chris Simpson
Page Views: 679
Submitted By: Christopher J Simpson on Mar 25, 2012

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About to move off the pinch on Heaven (Roadside Di...

Description 

The most logical and exciting line at the crag; goes directly up from the common start with Tricycle and Spectacle (project).

Have fun finding your way to the big blocky pinch/sloper. Once you're there, flag under to gain the horizontals and enjoy solid moves up excellent flakes to the easy highball finish.

Location 

Start from the same sit as Roadside Traverses (left and right). Head directly up the little blocky crimps and pinches.

Protection 

Pads and spotter. Fairly tall, though the difficulty lessens after the overlap.


Comments on Heaven (Roadside Direct) Add Comment
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By RhodeIslandJeff
From: Westerly, RI
Mar 4, 2013

Great name. This line has been on my project list for way too long. The pinches get me every time. You should give ViceGrip on the Broken Moon boulder out at Wickaboxet a try sometime (way beyond my ability).
By Christopher J Simpson
Mar 10, 2013

Glad you like the name. This is a real gem at an underrated mini-crag. I hope it gets more (gentle) traffic!
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Mar 11, 2013

Tell me about it, Jeff. I know I am weak atm, but I couldn't even get my hand on the big pinch. I scrubbed up the top today, so if you get through the pinch without being completely blown, you should be able to go for the top-out with confidence.
By RhodeIslandJeff
From: Westerly, RI
Apr 24, 2013

Evan was soooo close to sending this tonight. Stuck the blocky pinch was moving his left foot up and "pop" off he went.
By Christopher J Simpson
Apr 6, 2014

After another enjoyable session today at this crag, I am all the more convinced that this is the best line here! Super cool, super obvious, fairly hard.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 17, 2015

I still can't get to the pinch, WTH. I must be doing something really wrong. It is a heinous V5 for me. Are people using the little crimpy intermediates or doing some kind of big move all the way from the slopers?
By MaxMonn
From: Providence, RI
May 31, 2015
rating: V6 7A PG13

I'll agree that Chris has set the bar pretty high on this one haha. If I remember right Mark I was using a really high left foot up near the second/third hold for Specatacle and a really crappy lay back open hand crimp for the right hand in order to make the cross for the pinch.

Definitely hard. likely harder than advertised.
By Christopher J Simpson
Nov 19, 2015

I definitely had a high left foot, on one of the Spectacle slopers, as per Max Monn's memory. I repeated it early this year during Nina's visit, and felt like it was about solid for the grade. It's definitely harder than V5 if you try going up directly via the blocky crimps.

But maybe it's more morpho for me than I'm giving it credit for? Regardless, it's a sweet line.

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