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04. Barrett's Cove Cliff
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Buffy T 
Bugaboo T 
Charlotte's Crack T 
Clamdigger Crack T 
Continental Cracks T 
Desperado T,S 
Equinox T 
Fourth of July (mid-cliff START) T 
Good Omens T 
Harmonic Convergence T 
Heathrow - Ice Climb 
Hotel California T 
Joe's Route - Ice Climb 
Obscure Object of Desire S 
Old Spice T 
Old Stud S 
Pandora T,S 
Poison Ivy T 
Queen Charlotte T 
Slow Children (mid-cliff START)  T 
Spider (mid-cliff START) T 
Tangled Up in Blue (mid-cliff START) T 
Tritium Witch (mid-cliff START) T 
Web (mid-cliff START), The T 
White Streak T 
Witchy Woman (mid-cliff START) T 

Heathrow - Ice Climb 


Type:  Ice, 220'
Original: WI3+ [details]
FA: Ken Clark - early 1970's
Season: Winter
Page Views: 282
Submitted By: Brian Oelberg on Jan 3, 2015

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Barrett's in January


The main ice flow off of Barrett's.


Stubby ice screws.

Photos of Heathrow - Ice Climb Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Heathrow and Desperado in fat conditions.
Heathrow and Desperado in fat conditions.
Rock Climbing Photo: Heathrow

Comments on Heathrow - Ice Climb Add Comment
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By Ben Townsend
Jan 3, 2015

In typical conditions, a light rock rack is helpful for the first pitch.
By Brian Oelberg
From: Augusta
Mar 1, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: Glove fall:  a glove dropped on steep snow resulte...
Glove fall: a glove dropped on steep snow resulted in a cartwheeling glove falling over 100 feet before performing miraculous glove self arrest above the lower cliffs.

GAINAM: Glove Accidents in North American Mountaineering

Glove fall analysis: Barretts Cove, Camden Hills State Park, Maine
Fuschia: direct line of glove fall
Yellow X is the bolt at the bottom of CIS
Red: Heathrow
Green: Continental Ice Sheet and Joe's Route
Periwinkle: route of successful glove rescue attempt

Got up nice and early, but answered phone on a Sunday. (this was most likely the critical decision point) Work call delayed start but a valiant posthole effort was made by all. An attempt to reach Solstice was abandoned due to deep snow wallowing, and a first belay was set below the Belay Seat Ledge for Heathrow. Warm conditions led to rotten ice so a decision was made to attempt Joe's Route or Continental Ice Sheet.

Good progress to the bolt on the face below Continental Ice Sheet, but an error in hand eye coordination led to a glove fall that began slowly enough, but quickly accelerated and cartwheeled over 100 feet, before self arresting on branches above the lower talus.

A hasty retreat took us back to the tree at the bottom of Heathrow, and from there a miraculous glove sighting led us into a successful rescue operation, postholing through deep snow to retrieve the $14 Kinco glove.

By now the gloaming and defeatism of several mistakes sank in and we slunked happily back to the car. With both gloves.

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