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Heaters and Wife Beaters  

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Lee Terveen
Season: All.
Page Views: 78
Submitted By: BBQ on Mar 28, 2016

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Description 

Yet another Art Garfunkel type route that sits in semi-retirement while its four star bandmates get what's left of the granny panties thrown their way.

Back in the carefree rock and roll days, before kids and careers and mortgage payments changed the the Canyon Crew's aspirations, this climb developed a cult following for a righteous reason. It reminded us all that Reagan had not won the culture war and America was still a great place to be yourself. But like all good renaissances, the end of an era came when Kurt Cobain decided to blow his head off (or did he?) and Generation X began buying their Post Millennial children IPads (and other doodads) so that they would shut the fuck up long enough for us to get a pitch in before the next diaper change.

Where am I going with this? Nowhere. Climbers, like Frank Sanders, had their Woodstock and the rest of us are just trying to salvage the groovy. Don't ever grow up if you don't have to.

Don't be that climber who misses out on this route because you fell into that trap society set up for ya, man. The only downside is the hanging belay which is sort of a pain in the ass to deal with. Other than that, this route offers some stiff for the grade climbing through a monstrously groovy roof and when the hard climbing is over you can enjoy some pumpy, politically-incorrect five eleven climbing to the anchors. Up and coming crushers whose aspirations include routes like, Thunderhead's "Alice" and "The Tempest", need to work this route into their training regiment.

Location 

Locate The Sundance and hike to your right along an adventurous ledge and clip a cold shut for the belay. The climb becomes obvious by a large, white roof that becomes blonde slab, followed by a second roof to black, slabby rock to the anchors.

Protection 

Personal Anchor Systems work best for the belay. Bring at least ten quick draws. Stick clipping the first bolt or so is common practice and a good idea.


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