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West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
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Drug Abuse T 
Erickson's Finish T 
False Prophet T 
Fever, The T 
Going Postal T 
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Hanging Chad T 
Heat Wave T 
Horse d'Oeuvre (aka Pony Express P1 to Zip Code) T 
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Thin Ice T,TR 
Think Quickly T 
Unbroken Chain T 
variation to Mail Ridge T,TR 
Warp Drive Overload S 
Who's Holding T 
Wind Tunnel T 
Zeros and Ones T 

Heat Wave 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Tony Bubb, Joseffa Meir,1/3/16
New Route: Yes
Season: faces W/SW
Page Views: 81
Submitted By: Tony B on Jan 4, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: A view of the start of Heatwave (5.10).

2016 Closure on Shirt Tail Peak Effective March 11,2016 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Heat Wave is a reasonably good pitch with some interesting and gymnastic movement on big holds. Shorter folks might find it harder to get started, thus the ambiguity in grade. Both the initial overhang and the arete are worth the effort.

Step up onto the stepping stone with the belayer downhill and right, to the South. Place a 4” cam and then a red Camalot or nearest equivalent to protect the next several moves (crux). Reach out right to grab the bucket at the lip of the roof (height-dependent), and work your way up onto that and left over the roof (crux, 5.10). High-step to get established on the jug with feet and place another piece of gear.

Work your way up the right side of the arete with occasional gear to the top. A meter or two to the right of the summit of the arete a good belay is available on nuts, cams, and a small tree.

To descend, scramble horizontally to the left (North) to an obvious webbing anchor on a tree, and rap 65' to the ledge below.

Location 

About 20' left of the top pitch of the Rhombohedral there is a 1-meter-tall “stepping stone” just below a notable overhang. The overhang is split by an intermittent crack that goes through it in places and up to the arete to the left above. This is perhaps 7 meters left of the top pitch of Rhombohedral and less that one meter right of the arete at the right side of the top pitch of Wind Tunnel.

Protection 

A light rack of stoppers and cams. An optional 4" piece at the bottom can help keep the rope out of your way while climbing or in a fall but not keep you from touching down on the starting block.


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