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Heartbreaker 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Spring to Fall, inaccessible in Winter
Page Views: 106
Submitted By: Rondo Bauer on Oct 14, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Heartbreaker

Description 

AKA “Book of Dread.” 140ft to gear anchor. Starts on broken face and easy ledges and moves into right facing dihedral with hand sized crack. Protects well. Short easy chimney/offwidth at top that can be avoided by climbing face to the right. Save larger gear for protecting inside the offwidth. Intermediate 3 bolt anchor allows this to be done in two pitches. This route is particularly prone to small rock fall directly onto the belayer. Wear helmets and be careful of loose rock.

Location 

Name painted as “8 Heartbreaker.” Two rappels or walk off to climber's left.

Protection 

Gear to #4. 3 bolt anchor mid-way. Gear anchor at top.


Photos of Heartbreaker Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Midway anchor on Heartbreaker. Marines use this to...
BETA PHOTO: Midway anchor on Heartbreaker. Marines use this to...
Rock Climbing Photo: Chimney at top of Heartbreaker.
BETA PHOTO: Chimney at top of Heartbreaker.

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