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Heartbreaker [aka Never Cry Wolf] T,S 
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Heartbreaker [aka Never Cry Wolf] 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Richard and Joyce Rossiter, Elaine Chandler, and Mark Rolofson, 1988
Fixed Hardware: 7 Lead Bolts, 1 Belay Bolt [details]
Page Views: 1,824
Submitted By: David Benson on Sep 12, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Below the last bolt near the end of the 5.10 climb...

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  • Description 

    Begin as for V3, up the left side of the large block between Fin Three and Fin Four. Climb up the crack and follow the crack out left to reach the first bolt. Crux is above the second bolt. Belay from a single bolt anchor at the top and walk off to the north.

    The climbing is classic thin Eldo face climbing. Good moves. The crux is pretty short. The climbing could be made more difficult by staying to the right of the bolts (and the obvious holds to the left) but the line is quite fun.

    Per Tony B: ...after about 40', the dihedral gets larger on your left side. At that point if you look to the left you will see a line of bolts. Move up and left to these bolts to a 5.11 crux (can be made easier by excessive wandering about on the face) and then though a more sparsely protected 5.9- section to another group of bolts (5.10). Rossiter's old book claims that the route has become more difficult as a few holds "have broken off in the vicinity of the third and fourth bolts" but the route still seems reasonable at its grade, and the clips are not difficult if done from the best stances.

    Eds. This is a combination of submissions posted in 2001.


    7 QDs and a few pieces up to 1/2" to protect the lower part of V3.

    Photos of Heartbreaker [aka Never Cry Wolf] Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Fun edges and crimps near the 6th bolt.
    Fun edges and crimps near the 6th bolt.
    Rock Climbing Photo: The route as seen from above.
    The route as seen from above.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Moving onto the face at the first bolt.
    Moving onto the face at the first bolt.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the top of another classic Rossiter face c...
    Nearing the top of another classic Rossiter face c...

    Comments on Heartbreaker [aka Never Cry Wolf] Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Brian Milhaupt
    From: Golden, CO
    Jun 29, 2003
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

    I think this route deserves three stars for upward movement and one star for position because it is so easy to reach the 5.7 arete on Emission Control. It also felt quite a bit easier than 11b on the positive thin edges.
    By D. Shaw
    Sep 10, 2007

    This pitch is just barely worth doing, for the nice top section. The bottom, where the crux is supposed to be, is contrived: one must force oneself to stay exactly in the bolt line for it to be 5.11b. If you move left and keep hunting for edges, it is maybe 10+, at most. But the top section of bolts is sustained and quite pleasant (10a or 10b).
    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Jul 7, 2009

    If you're tall for the upper moves--around 6'--and climb just left of the first two bolts, this is about 10b. Fun climbing, but I was a little annoyed at having to decide whether to climb the obvious rock with holds just left of, and within reach of, the first few bolts, or to climb straight up at the bolts.
    By Mr. Stevens
    From: Boulder, CO
    Nov 16, 2013

    I thought this was a great route, just pray you don't have the Mariah Carey song stuck in your head for the whole pitch. I stayed just right of the 2nd bolt, which turned out to be pretty blank and definitely felt 5.11. The 2nd clip was super desperate for me at 5'7".

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