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Heartbreak Hotel
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Ah Fair of the Heart T 
Beta Blocker T 
Heartbreak June T 
Hypotension T 
Monsters Incorporated T 
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Heartbreak June 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13 [details]
FA: Pete Takeda and Lenore Sparks
New Route: Yes
Season: summer, fall, spring
Page Views: 564
Submitted By: lenore sparks on Jul 1, 2009

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Pete at the start.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This climb is on the prow to the right of Beta Blocker. Begin the climb with a very thin face move boulder problem. Behind you is a large tooth that can serve as a bombay chimney. Move out of the chimney, around the block and into a thin, left facing corner. A lieback to crux sidepulls with sparse pro leads to another crack system to the left. Follow this to a slab that joins with Beta Blocker's hand crack.

The rap station is on the top on an obvious ledge. There is NO fixed gear on this route save the rap station.

Location 

It is on Heartbreak Hotel's NE side top the right of Beta Blocker. A huge, nose-like feature makes this route obvious.

Protection 

#1-3 Camalots, wires, and small, finger-sized pieces.


Photos of Heartbreak June Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Lenore exiting the chimney move.
Lenore exiting the chimney move.
Rock Climbing Photo: Heartbreak June.
Heartbreak June.

Comments on Heartbreak June Add Comment
Show which comments
By lenore sparks
From: Denver, Colorado
Jul 7, 2017

CONDITION REPORT 
I ground up lead this a few weeks ago. I want to stress the PG-13 rating mainly because it is quite dirty due to a lack of traffic. I put an anchor on this one at the top ledge to accommodate this climb and the other three that meet on the ledge. Any neighboring climb can utilize this anchor to rap down rather than walk off. I still think it is a cool, futuristic line, originally envisioned by Pete.
By EldoFiend
From: WY
Jul 1, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

More like 10+.
By dameeser
From: denver
Jul 3, 2017

It's 5.11 for sure.

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