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Heart Shaped Rice Cake 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Zhang Dengjong
Page Views: 166
Submitted By: BrianWS on Nov 26, 2013

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Description 

A very long route by local standard, and an excellent one at that.

P1: Climb the slightly overhanging wall, passing a few small tiered roofs and a bit of wobbly rock along the way to a 2-bolt anchor at a decent stance. 10 bolts.

P2: The quality pitch! There are cruxes gaining the L-facing dihedral and transitioning onto the billboard of rock that finishes the route. Transitioning left and pulling onto this face is thrilling, with nothing but air below your feet. Work through a few hard tugs on the slabby face to the second set of anchors. 14 bolts.

You could probably get away with bringing far less (maybe 18) and stringing both pitches into one. You'd need a few long runners and possibly misguided faith in the older sea-worn bolts. Good gear might be found in the many horizontals if wary of the bolts.

When I climbed this, it could be rapped with one 60m rope from the second anchors, which would deposit you part way up the huge mound of dirt and rock outside of the cave. Scramble down the pile for about 50 feet or so to the trail.

The height of the mound may have changed since then, so plan ahead and bring two ropes or break the descent into 2 separate rappels.

Location 

One of the first routes as you exit the First Cave. If facing the cave from the ocean, this will be on the right side of the entrance, to the right of the giant mound of dirt.

Protection 

Dangerous bolts (2004)


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By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
Nov 26, 2013

Supposedly the first pitch Valentine's Gift was rebolted with new stainless steel bolts in September, 2012. What kind of bolts are on the second pitch, do you recall?
By BrianWS
Nov 26, 2013

Sorry, I can't recall for certain -- I think they were expansion bolts, similar to the ones on P1.
If they bothered to rebolt the first pitch, the second one would be likely as well. The climbing to the first anchors is kind of sucky so I would assume that if they'd spend all that effort cleaning it up, it would imply that they were going to work on the second pitch.

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