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Heart Route (Free) 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c Hueco: V10 Font: 7C+

   
Type:  Trad, Boulder, 26 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c Hueco: V10 Font: 7C+ [details]
FA: Mason Earle, Brad Gobright june 2015
Page Views: 4,692
Submitted By: m-earle on Jun 21, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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The A5 Traverse. Photo by Dan Krauss

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

First climbed in 1970 by Scott Davis and Chuck Kroger, the Heart Route follows an obvious line through the middle of El Cap's SW face. The free climbing follows most of the original route, with a few variations. The climbing is varied, with tedious slabs down low, and steep enduro pitches above the heart. The "V10" rating is for a dyno on the sixth pitch.

Location 

Start on Sacherer Cracker, but keep climbing until you get to a big tree on the top.

Protection 

from micro nuts to #5 camalot


Photos of Heart Route (Free) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Brad sending the immaculate 13th pitch. Ben Ditto ...
Brad sending the immaculate 13th pitch. Ben Ditto ...
Rock Climbing Photo: The crux Arete. Usually wet. photo by Ben Ditto
The crux Arete. Usually wet. photo by Ben Ditto
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo by Cheyne Lempe
Photo by Cheyne Lempe
Rock Climbing Photo: topo
BETA PHOTO: topo

Comments on Heart Route (Free) Add Comment
Show which comments
By C Miller
Administrator
Jun 21, 2015

Good job on freeing the route, another one down.
By Alex Bury
From: Ojai, CA
Jun 21, 2015

Great work guys!
By Rob Dillon
Jun 21, 2015

"Start on Sacherer Cracker, but keep climbing until you get to a big tree on the top."

Pretty much the best beta ever.

Nice work, y'all!
By taipan jam
Aug 9, 2015

I have to agree with Rob. Great job, I had always wondered if this was going free one day.
By Jared LaVacque
Administrator
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
Jun 6, 2016

Awesome looking line! Is it graded .13b or d? A V10 move would make it .13d/.14a.

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