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Heart of Stone 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R

Type:  Trad, 10 pitches, Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R [details]
FA: Vern Clevenger, Claude Fiddler, Dave Lomba, August 1980
Page Views: 4,047
Submitted By: Christina Freschl on Sep 3, 2012

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


Pitch 1: 5.10c slab climbing past 6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor at top
Pitch 2: 5.10d mixed climbing past two bolts. Thin lay back through the crux. Two bolt anchor.
Pitch 3: 5.10d thin corner of mixed climbing with two bolts. Thin seam climbing. Don't miss the second bolt after the end of the first corner. Watch the rock quality on the first half of the pitch.
Pitch 4: 5.10b/c Slab climbing, trending left, past three bolts up to big ledge with a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 5: Blocky 5.7 corner. Set the belay at the top of the blocks. #1-3 gear anchor.
Pitch 6: The pitch!!! Start with hands to thin hands up to the first roof corner. Lay back up the finger crack. Stem rest when you can. Finish through thin roof traversing left to a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 7: Traverse left, place gear in seams and then bust the 5.10 improbable mantle move to the first bolt. Then keep mantling past another bolt to a right ascending crack on easy terrain to a single bolt which you can back up with a #1-2 cam.
Pitch 8: 5.10 b slab climbing trending right to a gear anchor on a ledge.
Pitch 9: Traverse right and pull through steep knobs to a single bolt, then traverse slightly left and then right. Don't miss the single bolts, which is more left then the route suggests. Belay with a single bolt anchor back up with #1-2 cams.
Pitch 10: Clip bolt right at the roof and pull the improbable 5.11c mantle move. When that is done move up and slightly right past bolts. Gear anchor.
Pitch 11: Easy terrain to the top.


West face of Fairview. Lucky Streaks and The Great Pumpkin are further west.
Descend off the back side of Fairview.
Bailing with two ropes is possible without leaving gear up until pitch 6.


Standard rack up to #3, doubles of #.5-1, small C3s down to purple, 10 alpine draws
Bolts on many pitches. Recently replaced.

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By -robin-
Mar 17, 2014

FA: Vern Clevenger, Claude Fiddler, Dave Lomba, August 1980

Bolts replaced 2012
By Bryan Gilmore
From: New England
Sep 1, 2014

Highly recommended. You can link p1 and p2, then p3 and p4, then p8 and 9 with a 70m. Bring good bolt finding skills, it can take some time to spot them on that shinning granite!
By david s wilson
Aug 14, 2016

Great route: We had the following pitch by pitch thoughts:
P1 - 10d/11a and heady. If you are ok on this one, you'll be fine on the rest of the route
P2- 10d - short crux
P3 - seemed like 11b to us. Slippery awkward corner with good pro
P4- 10a not bad
P5- bottom of big corner scramble
P6 - amazing corner with crux at top. 11d / 12a
P7 - 10a mantle 15 or 20 feet to the side of cam - not too bad but gets your attention
P8 - more bolts than you expect on this one - one hard but well protected move
P9- 5.8 traversing and up past single bolt
P10 - the 11c mantle is a V4 boulder problem turning a small overhang. Pro is good but to the side and a fall will result in hasty team reunion.
The route has all new bolts which is reassuring. Doing this again we would take: no nuts, a few tiny cams, a double rack through 1" , single 2" and 3", draws, slings
It appeared you could rap from the top of the big corner with a single 70 on good anchors.

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