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North Face
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Bear Republic S 
Crispy Cat T 
Enabler, The S 
Falcon Roast T,S 
Freedom Isn't Free S 
Heart Of Darkness S 
Heart Of Gold S 
No More Bush S 
Smokey The Bear S 
Stickleback S 

Heart Of Gold 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Nic Sabo, Evan Wisheropp
Page Views: 113
Submitted By: Lurker on Jun 14, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Nic pulling onto the Heart.

Description 

Start as per Heart Of Darkness, climbing a technical and crimpy slab. At the top of the slab, head left up the overhanging headwall.

Protection 

8 bolts, #2 Camalot, rap anchors.

Location 

Far left side of the north face.


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By Lurker
Administrator
From: Westwood
Jun 14, 2016

I bolted the lower portion of this route, but the upper portion was bolted by Zach Miller. He named it Heart Of Gold because the wall has a very distinctive heart-shaped feature, and the upper part apparently takes a perfect #2 Camalot. I don't believe he ever redpointed the route, but I think the name is fitting and should be kept out of respect for his hard work in envisioning and bolting the line.

That said, I don't think Zach or I will FA'ing the route any time soon...Zach no longer lives in the area, and I'm nursing a wrist injury. The route is currently an open project. If anyone climbs it, let me know and I'll add you as the FA.
By Evan Wisheropp
Sep 10, 2017
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Nic Sabo and I both led this route onsight today, Nic getting the first lead. Heart of Gold is a great route, and not as hard as it looks. It's neat how you get technical slab, and overhanging semi-jugs in one route. Get on it! The feature really does look like a perfect heart, looks more like a broken heart if you blow your onsight. The crux is short and very good. 5.11d/12a

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