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Heart of Gold T 
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Heart of Gold 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jeff Scheuerell, Lynne & Jerry Anderson 10/2004
Page Views: 768
Submitted By: Aaron Liebling on Sep 15, 2014

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Emily cruising the knobs


P1 - Either climb directly up the face to the left facing crack/arête or use the wide flake on the left to get off the ground and then traverse right. Using the crack in the corner for pro, head for the small roof above. Bouldery moves surmount the roof and lead past a second bolt. From here, head up easy knobs past the left side of the larger roof above. Finishes on a good ledge with bolts.

P2 - Curve left (easier climbing and better pro) before aiming for the obvious semi-circular hole in the roof directly above the belay. Face climbing leads to the hole and a bolt just beyond it. Head for the top on easier ground.


Head left and find the chain anchors for Control Your Pipe. From here, three single rope raps (watch your rope - lots of features to try and eat them) lead back to the base. Otherwise, continue for a short pitch up the face or take the gully on the left side wit a fixed rope. From the summit, rap the Great Depression.


Two-thirds of the way up the Alley Wall, just before a large right facing flake. Looking up, you will see a small roof with bolts before and after it.


Gear to 4" (emphasis on small), knob slings

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Rock Climbing Photo: View from the ground.  The first pitch goes up the...
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